Wilderness

Gorumara National Park

Yesterday on our drive from Siliguri, the entire way to our destination was through picturesque landscapes of tea gardens and hills. Like floating on the wings we reached our final destination Lataguri. The tiny locality of Dooars is adjacent to the Gorumara National Park and the permits of entry into the forests had to be obtained from Lataguri. It was refreshing for eyes surrounded by rustic green and we were in the kingdom of wilderness where the wild animals very often raid the human habitations. I was impatient for my jungle safari of next morning.

Journey through the greens of Gorumara

It was a soothing morning in the Gorumara National Park; the tropical rain forest appeared a bit reluctant to efface its curtain of mist. Keeping the wild greens on both sides our pursuit began on a hoodless jeep accompanying with safari guide. Slowly with a fascinating Sun up, entire jungle was again enlivened with the chirpy note of different birds. It was screaming peacocks welcomed us as we made an entry into the territory of the sanctuary. Agile eyes of the guide were fast shifting on different directions to spot the wild animals and he spotted very often huge peacocks sitting on trees near and afar. The safari jeep stopped at a point from where the forest guide pointed his hand towards a marshland in the forest in our left and began avidly observing the movement of herons. We patiently waited staring towards the direction with our eyes forgot to blink. After a while a herd of Indian bisons or Gaur displaying their heavily toned muscles, appeared with calves, and forwarded calmly on grazing in the meadow. Rest of the safari sometime it was a glimpse of jungle fowl before our jeep; sometime the barking deer stared at us behind the camouflage of greens, sometime the silhouette of flight of birds and huge footmarks of a lone elephant amused us on our journey through the woods.

Peacock at the Gorumara National Park

I knew the time will come to end and we will mingle again with the urban crowd in the sanctuary of concretes but, the memories of visit will definitely remain evergreen and I will ever recognize the freshness of the morning that rejuvenated me thoroughly.

Exterminator

Jaigarh Fort,Jaipur,Rajasthan

My first interaction with cannon was “Jahan Kosha” during my schooldays, while on a visit to Murshidabad, West Bengal. It was a fabulous experience to get acquainted with ensembles of various sized cannons, from miniature to mammoth. Jahan Kosha was the biggest and it was believed that thundering of Jahan Kosha would have annihilated the entire world. In sixteenth century it was an effort by the rulers of Bengal intended to keep the marauders at bay.

Jaivana Cannon

Now, it was my journey to interact with the World`s largest cannon on wheels. The image of Jahan Kosha was peeping through my memory as we were approaching the Jaigarh fort of Jaipur, Rajasthan. The picturesque scenario of the vast stretch of the Aravalli Hills, were spread like a natural barrier to the enemies trying to access the fort and on top of the hill the sprawling stretch of the ramparts of Jaigarh fort emerged like a reminder of a fairy tale. Sounding like hooves of thousand horses immediately a spell of torrential rain trampled with their war cry accompanied with thundering mirth and the weather shrouded with sudden gloom. The rain slowly ceased after repressing the unruly dust and as we reached the fort Sun already came out with ebullient sheen.

Jaivana cannon

First glimpse of the legendary cannon Jaivana was inexplicably very engrossing. Lifting the muzzle on gigantic wheels it was gleaming in predatory elegance, like a creepy crocodile basking before deadly assault. Huge strapping body and bigger than all my previous experiences. Jaivana, the legacy on wheels was manufactured in the foundry of Jaigarh fort with a disastrous shelling range over 30-kilometres. It was test fired only once to witness the capacity of shelling and measure the enormity of rampage and as expected it landed shell on the target very viciously and ghastly. The shock wave produced due to its thundering hurl caused casualty in gunner’s side too.

foundry of Jaigarh fort,Jaipur

The felicitation of life

Khajuraho temple

I was in a dilemma, how to encapsulate the experience of my Khajuraho visit. Should I reckon Khajuraho as the fervour of an unknown sculptor who depicted many moods of life on the solid rocks of sand stone? Was it a tribute to divinity and life, expressed through a pulsating Indian art form on the temple walls of Khajuraho? Should it be named, a thrilling synthesis of idolatry and art of love making? Sometime, I felt it like flaunt of living, felicitation of biological relationship between men and women or the teachings of love making expressed on the temple walls of Khajuraho. The display of arousing moods of playful human body or precisely the art of erotica has transformed into a spectacular form of art, which proclaimed bold and proud maturity, thousand years ago. The panoply of sculptures of Hindu god and the expressive love makers on temple walls, gravitated, hypnotised, churned my nerve and surreally left their everlasting magnificence in my memory.

The divine sculptures on Khajuraho temple

The jubilation of life or splendid picture of living Khajuraho, began its journey during the reign of King Bidyadhar Chandella, who initiated the work of the temple arena. As per myth, the King was a descendent of the moon. The heritage site of Khajuraho was a collaboration of Chandella Kings during 950AD to 1150AD and to save the ravages of invasion the inhabitation was shifted from this area. As the time elapsed the premise of Khajuraho remained shrouded with forests to slip away into oblivion and to some extent escaped the threat of demolition by the invaders. After a long time it was rediscovered and brought to light again with measures of restoration taken by British engineer T.S.Burt. The temple achieved its deserved recognition before the world with thronged inquisitive visitors but, all available accounts of History remain veiled before the inevitable questions in respect of Khajuraho.

Insignia of tourism

Cooch Behar Palace

West Bengal has diverse range of fascinating holiday destinations. Somewhere the sun rises midst of sea and somewhere a glimpse of sun smear the snow clad peaks in golden tint. Somewhere, it is spell binding display of generosity of nature that resuscitate the soul and somewhere it is reminder of exquisite historic legacies with assiduous treasure of myths and lore. Each of them is unique in their identity with fathomless beauty. Surrounded by wide stretch of forests and wildlife sanctuaries, blending the grandeur of royal era the district of Cooch Behar frames the explicit picture, like an insignia in the tourism map of India.

Cooch Behar Palace

Erstwhile princely state Cooch Behar was among few richest states of India during British domination. At the royal coronation of Edward-VII in 1902, apart from two other kings of Indian princely states the illustrious king of Cooch Behar Nripendra Narayan was accorded the honour of riding as honorary ADCs beside the royal carriage and he was founder President of the Calcutta club.

Present palace of Cooch Behar was built in 1887 during Nripendra Narayan`s rule with estimated cost of construction was Rs. 80, 00,000/-. The palace is an assortment or a confluence of fascinating western architectures and it was one of the finest in India.

Educated in pioneer institutes of India and England, 21-st king of Cooch Behar, Nripendra Narayan was among the new generation of rulers of Indian princely states who were described as less flamboyant, less self-indulgent, than their predecessors, more conscious of the need for changes and the reformation of their states. King Nripendra Narayan was married to Suniti Devi, and the royal couple extended their support in many social reforms. Abundant examples of discriminating architectures and regal edifices of Cooch Behar carry the flavour of splendour and the legacies that remind the rich history of Bengal.

Survivor of ravages

Iron Pillar,Delhi

In the complex of Qutb Minar, Delhi, I felt a tryst with sublimate stories of history confined in the array of decrepit structures, the roofless colonnades and in remnants of nicely carved arches essence of sensational stories of history could be felt and enlivened many fascinating tales of bravery in my mind. Like a landmark or a juncture of history, where a sun down of Hindu rule and subsequent advent of Muslim rule in India were merged.

Iron Pillar,Delhi

In the Qutb Minar complex, Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque happened to be Rai Pithoda temple; an assemblage of twenty seven Hindu and Jain temples later ruined and renamed by Muslim rulers (Pritviraj Chauhan was also known as Rai Pithoda). Marks of destruction by the invaders were everywhere in the precincts of the complex but an upstanding iron pillar miraculously survived ravages of invasion, corrosion and pollution.

Iron, as we commonly see, when exposed in air get oxidized and thus result corrosion. As the scientists say some particles present in air are the main inducing agents for corrosion. The exceptional example of iron, where adverse components of weather could not erode its anti corrosive coating has been a cause of great curiosity to the world wide tourists’ as well as to the scientists and historians. Extensive research revealed due to high phosphorous content, the pillar sustained to withstand corrosion or other hazards of nature.

Metallurgical wonder, The Iron pillar,Delhi

Inscriptions in devnagri were engraved on the pillar. It was Gupta devnagri and the inscription elucidated, founder of Tomar dynasty Anang Pal, brought it from an unknown location, defined as Vishnupad Giri and placed it in Rai Pithoda temple. The inscriptions on Iron pillar insinuated that it was raised actually to accolade posthumously a Gupta king called Chandra. Chandra was presumably Chandragupta II of Gupta dynasty of fourth century A.D. The scientists of fourth century coated the iron with a protective film to prevent it from getting oxidised that sustained anti corrosive property notwithstanding the ravages of corrosion and pollution.

Unique respite

way yo Mirik,

After a long spell of gruelling hackneyed life, yearn for a rendezvous with the lush greenery was knocking at the door. My unusual morning slumber broke on an uphill drive from Siliguri and I discovered we were on a pursuit to elude away from the tiring schedule to overhaul our soul. Viewed like wrapped under green carpets, the hills were entirely clad on tea plantations or in other words it was like a masterpiece of soothing colours on the canvas of blue sky. Our uphill drive was on a road cutting through the tea gardens, like a ripped carpet.

Sumendu Lake, Mirik

Effacing the drape of mist the morning was slowly dressing up in ebullience and it was fascinating view of a Sun up through the window of our vehicle. From the curtain of haze the Sun inundated the entire surrounding with illumination and nascent Sun appeared in stunning vermillion in the azure, emanating pleasant warmth in Godly gesture. Through the ups and downs of hilly terrain, enjoying a ride on roller coaster we reached our destination, Mirik.

Mirik town

The tiny lake town of Darjeeling District, with a moderate number of inhabitation, was in fascinating mood, entire environment appeared basking under the Sun. In local dialect, Mirik means, a result of conflagration. We proceeded to the lake called Sumendu, flanked by a beautiful garden and grove of pine trees on its other side, where flamboyant boats were sailing on. A bridge resembling the shape of rainbow has linked both sides of the lake called Indrani Pool, and it was a picturesque beauty to describe about the surrounding. Lots of fishes of the lake were friskily gulping puffed rice. It was a glassy view of an unbounded beauty, where the slick of dew on the tip of grasses was still visible and emerged like diamonds in galore.

Instantaneously a splash of cold wind from grove of pine trees shook me thoroughly to welcome in the world of lush greenery and to reciprocate, I inhaled deeply in obeisance. Abutting boundary of the lake pine trees invited us in the bower that deepened the colour of Sumendu. The impetus to unite with the nature was driving us to the wooded land.

Throne of a maestro

Anoop Talao, Fatehpur Sikri

It was too hot and the remorseless heat of the Sun was playing Raag Deepak in the entire premises of Fatehpur Sikri, Agra. Sweltered by the mid day Sun, in the array of red sandstone edifices of Fatehpur Sikri, we were avidly listening to the superficial anecdotes of history from our guide, sagas of sheen of the desolate royal premise that was deserted due to dearth of water by Emperor Akbar, just fourteen years after its construction. My vision leapt on abundantly spread examples of applauding craftsmanship of Mughal architecture on the royal buildings of Fatehpur Sikri. Exposed under the infuriating radiation in the glade, I was transfixed and got dragged to architecture that appeared like an oasis in the arid desert, with four walkways built on a tiny lake attached to a square platform at the centre and nicely carved red sandstone trellis abutting the precincts.

Anoop Talao, Fatehpur Sikri

It was Anoop Talao, the seat of royal vocalist in the court of Akbar. Emerged like a throne of a legendry maestro of Hindustani classical music, Tansen. Where he kindled incandescent flame of classical music through his unique compositions and vocally portrayed fascinating shades of changing nature and made the treasure of Hindustani Classical music wealthier. Tansen, was a gift to the court of Akbar from the king of Rewa and adorably called Mian by the emperor. Listened by his greatest admirer Emperor Akbar from Khwabgah or emperor`s rest room, Anoop Talao was said to have dazzled with the glint of countless Gold and Silver coins.

The deserted seat of the legendry performer appeared to me like a poignant listener of wailing wind, the seat that witnessed Tansen to electrify his royal audience through his compositions or witnessed rain to overpower the incense of gleaming Sun brought by Mian ki Malhar.

Retreat for sojourn

“Each year in mid April, when the warm weather arrived, the Viceroy`s departure for Simla in his White and Gold Vice regal train signaled that the mountain capital`s season had began.”----Freedom at Midnight.

The Viceroyal Palace,Simla

Through a charming landscape and uphill drive, we were on our way to the Viceroy`s palace of Simla, on the observatory hill, the place of British sojourn in the congenial weather of Simla where the searing glint of Sun has no access. The windy afternoon slowly turned to a moderate storm as we began our journey and like a ruffian to afflict our drive to the observatory hill, Simla, trampled on the windscreen of our car, might be reminding us the strict British rule that banned general vehicles to ply on the streets of Simla. It is hard to believe; on a modern motor driven road of Simla that rickshaw was the common mode of conveyance till the British domination. Until the Kalka Simla railway was operational from 9-th November 1903, the retreat convoy of the Viceroy usually reached Simla from Kalka by road on Tonga, bullock carts and their belongings on porters back.

The Viceroyal Palace,Simla

Our car stopped near the open space where journey of Indian Viceroy of British regime used to end every year at the arrival of hot season. While walking towards the entrance, I felt very strange reminding that Indian were not allowed to walk even on the Mall of Simla till the end of World War I.

Retaining its elite class since the British era of Viceroyalty, the discriminating Scottish styled castle like architecture designed by Irish architect Henry Irwin has been dedicated after Indian independence to the elite scholars of Indian Institute of Advanced Study. Surrounded in an array of upright trees with a superb lawn in its front the huge palace happened to be summer retreat of the Viceroy of India or a retreat into luxury for the successor of Mughal in India. The venue for many historic meetings since the Viceroyalty of Lord Dufferin, the erstwhile summer palace undergone some changes in its interior design to meet the requirement of the Indian Institute of Advanced Study.

Meeting the history

Red fort,Delhi

A glimpse of the red sandstone ramparts of Red Fort beside the swarming street of Delhi elucidated its Mughal lineage and appeared like a landmark of Mughal domination in India at the apogee of power. In its unimpeded look, I was awestruck by the sight of Lahore gate; familiar face of the fort, from where Prime Minister of India unfurls the Indian tricolour every year, the sight of Indian tricolour reminded the zeal and determination of Indian freedom fighters to hoist the tricolour on the fort.

Red fort, Delhi

Besieged by Indian security, the Red Fort emerged like a symbol of power that was visibly very close but, inaccessible, where the definition of “power” has gone through a series of evolution, during the time of Mughal Monarchy, Colonial regime, and Democratic rule after Indian independence.

Ramparts of Red fort,Delhi

Built by the emperor Shahjahan in seventeenth century, the Red Fort or Laal Qila has witnessed the glamorous days of Mughal regime, witnessed a declining Mughal domination and ravages on the street of Delhi by marauding band of Nadir Shah, witnessed the end of Mughal regime and advent of Wiltshire Regiment of British to replace the Mughal army, witnessed the excruciating trial to oust Mughal emperor Bahadur Shah and nearly a century later, trial of the soldiers of Ajad Hind Fauj (Indian National Army) of Netaji Subhas at the same spot by the British government, witnessed the sun up of independent India on 15-th August 1947 with the unfurled tricolour hoisted for the first time, to commemorate Indian independence.

Inside view and British barracks inside Red fort,Delhi 

It was the Red Fort, an inexhaustible platform of hoisting historic events, where history has its ceaseless journey since medieval age to the present. With the holidaying crowd, we began our awaited rendezvous with the landmark of eternal sheen or to sate the thirst of experiencing history in the array of bereft buildings.

Shape of a dream

Apart from piquant cuisine, colourful outfits and transfixing ceremonies, city of Jaipur, Rajasthan, has priceless ensemble of historic monuments. Unique in architectural design, the palaces, astronomical observatory, forts of Jaipur reflect the spirit of a vibrant city and they are a treasure of lore. Series of interminable strong ramparts of Aamer fort of Jaipur on the Aravalli hills kindle the feeling of experiencing Great Wall of China. The outright symbol of intransigence and resolute grit of Rajput warriors, Aamer fort or Amber fort of Rajasthan is the reminder of ebullient phase of Indian History.

Road to Aamer fort,Jaipur

Keeping the dark coloured Maota Lake in our left, our vehicle started to scale the slopes to the fort, the road happened to be thronged with marching queues of war elephants, lancers on camel and horseback has become congested with tourist vehicles. Imposing beauty of Aamer fort slowly enveloped us in the perplexing extravaganza of delight. Where natural and manmade beauties were mingled in abundance and the hypnotising ambience lured us by the power its elegance.

Aamer fort,Jaipur

It was inestimably huge and enigmatic to speculate, how the hefty structure of Aamer fort, the erstwhile capital of Jaipur was erected so many years ago on the top of Aravalli hills. The hilltop once hummed by the illustrious personalities of history, I found the premises of Aamer fort was entirely filled with tourists and photo enthusiasts. Getting down from the car, we began walking on the stone paved approach road to enter into the premises where galore of colours has been interlaced with fascinating tales of bravery. The picturesque beauty of a Rajput kingdom situated in the midst of natural wall of hills surprised us with the splendid opulence of Royal legacies, remnant of an era where veritable exemplar of colourful days of Royal inhabitation could be freshly felt in every corner.

Inside Aamer fort,Jaipur

With my leaping eyes from atop the castle, I was overwhelmed by the memories of fascinating tales of my childhood and I began to locate afar the hill where Royal treasure was buried, sometime exploring the clouds of dust churned by the hooves of horses and sometime envisaging a swishing sword of Rajput warrior flashing into the sky. The deepening twilight darkened the water of the lake to mark the end of an eventful day. Slowly darkness shrouded the entirety and we were on our way to leave the fort.