Buxa fort(where the Nature meets History)

It was on 26-th May`12,on the trip to Visit the Buxa fort,hired a car from Alipurduar,and obtained permission from the forest Department,West Bengal at Rajabhatkhawa, for us and our car. The place will be met on the way to the fort.We Started our journey for the fort through the core area of the Buxa Tiger reserve.It is a tropical Rain forest with such a density of trees that eyes could not see further as the vision was getting restricted by thick bush.A natural International corridor for wild elephants migration between India and Bhutan. Buxa Tiger Reserve has the second biggest number of populations of Tiger after Sunderbans. It may also be called the place of unknown birds with wide variety of wild animals.On the way the driver told how he got encountered by a pack of wild dogs in that route.On our way we could see peacock,flying squirrel,jungle fowl, in the forest. At Santalabari,the place from where our trek started,we got down from the car.After necessary formalities at Santalabari,started walking up with a guide accompanying us.The man had a sharp eyesight and good spotter of birds. On our way to the fort,the pet dog of our guide kept following us throughout the way till we came down.The man kept holding my son`s hand and I could see them walking up in chatting like friends.The way leading to the fort,was full of trees mainly Teak.The trees were looking like they were planted in lines and columns.I asked the guide about that.He said,the ancestors of his family and other villagers of his locality provided labour in planting the trees, early during the British rule and received salt from them as the cost of their labour. It reminded me the term “salary” the word was derived from salt.Truly historic.

the Buxa fort

Buxa or Buxaduar is a place under the District of Jalpaiguri. The name of Buxa Tiger is derived from the Buxa fort and initially the fort was the property of Royal Govt. of Bhutan,was used as a check post for the traders to Bhutan.The British rulers of India after winning the 2-nd Indo-Bhutan war, took the fort under their control on 7-th December 1864 (First Bhutan war took place in 1774) and on 11-th November 1865 Sinchula treaty was signed between the British and the Bhutan Govt. and by virtue of which, entire Dooars area was annexed to India.In 1873 it was used as Bengal Native Infantry Barrack.During 1930 to 1937 and 1942 to 1947 it was used as Detention camp of Indian freedom fighters,and during 1948 to 1951 it was used as a Jail,for the political prisoners of India.During 1959 to 1969 it was used as a refugee camp for the Tibetan refugees and during 1971 to 1972 it was used as refugee camp for refugees from the Bangladesh.A martyr column has been built by the P.W.D.,Govt. of West Bengal in the Buxa fort in memory of the great freedom fighters of India who were jailed here. On our way to the fort,it was around 5-kms trek through the forest,several species of birds we saw and sighted the Great Indian Horn bill among the other beautiful birds,as I saw the Great Indian Horn bill I was surprised to see the size of the bird,it sounded terrific as it flied off.The guide spotted at least a couple of varieties of Hornbill. At last reached the Buxa fort,I got frightened,even thinking, of the freedom fighters and the refugees,were brought here,as nothing could be seen around, except forest and hills,even the trekking route we came through,also seemed to be lost.It reminded me the great Cellular Jail,Andaman,once the prisoners are brought here,there was no chance to escape.The banyan trees inside the jail campus will take you to the past,the storage tanks for water,tennis court,isolation cell could be seen,though the barracks were removed by the government.The fort was getting ruined,and landslide washed away some parts of the fort and it looked the fort will not exist long and its memories will remain restricted in photographs and stories only. The guide said the fort is within the area of forest,there are some technical difficulties in renovating the fort.But,if some serious measures are not taken in time,to restore or renovate the fort an important chapter of the Indian History that is under the threat of time,may get washed away.

the great Indian Hornbill

A small village has been established.The people live there,bring the commodities of their daily need on foot from the plains.Our guide took me to a place near the fort,he showed the houses of the British period and several other important houses of that time. Buxaduar post office has been established in such a house.

the small village of Buxa

A small museum we saw in the locality,with nicely displayed exhibits,photo of the prisoners who were jailed here during the Indian freedom movement.The Buxa fort how it looked earlier,pictures on varieties of animal and birds found in the Buxa jungle,few musical instruments,replica of a letter that was written by the prisoners to the great poet Rabindranath Tagore and the reply from Rabindranath written in 1931 were also kept among the exhibits. Another interesting thing I saw, a piece of wood with a peculiar looking opening,with small bees could be seen within that.It was kept for bee culture.It was surprising to see a place that was used for the prisoners to punish in the British time is now a village of peoples,living happily. The guide was so eager to show me the place for worship of local people in their houses,he took me to a house and described how the people (The Dukpas) worship (The Buddhists) their god.Small kitchen gardens and Peach trees loaded with the fruits were refreshing for eyes. The man took me near a huge Sal tree, and collected some crystalline solid deposited on the bark of the tree of blackish red in colour, and gently rubbed with his hand.As he spread the hand before our nose, it smelt excellent. He said it was “Sal dhoop” or the fragrance of Sal tree and has germicidal effects and its fumes or fragrances keep away mosquito and flies when burnt at home. I never knew the the Sal tree gives such superb fragrance apart from its valuable wood. Thanks again, for enriching us with his knowledge. The forest has all its resource for our benefit,only thing needed is to protect them. I was thinking,when prisoners were brought here how did they survive!Now,I got the answer, “If there is a will, there is a way”.

bee culture

There were another 4-kms. extra trek for the Rovers Point,the land of unknown birds.The place can attract more tourists and trekking lovers,the beauty of lush green forests are still to be discovered.Even closing my eyes, l can still see the fort,the houses of British period,the village, the beautiful landscapes.At the time we started leaving from Santalabari,the guide came close to my son and said "When you will grow up,come again".I could see the dwindling silhouette of the person standing at that place waving his hand and did not move until the car took us so far away from him that we lost him from our vision.Our guide was truly a nature lover and future of Buxa looks very safe in their hands. My memories of Buxa is ever fresh and is never forgettable.

the person guided us to explore the Buxa

On 11-th May 1981 Buxa fort was declared `Historical monument` under West Bengal Preservation of historical monuments and objects of Archaeological sites Act. 1957 (West Bengal Act XXI of 1957). Cars can be hired from Alipurduar upto Santalabari and then Buxa fort can be reached through the forest and is around 5-kms uphill walk.Options of home-stays by the local peoples can also be availed at Buxa,to witness the nature meeting the history. Alipurduar is well connected by road as well as railway network. Nearest airport Bagdogra.