Retreat for sojourn

“Each year in mid April, when the warm weather arrived, the Viceroy`s departure for Simla in his White and Gold Vice regal train signaled that the mountain capital`s season had began.”----Freedom at Midnight.

The Viceroyal Palace,Simla

Through a charming landscape and uphill drive, we were on our way to the Viceroy`s palace of Simla, on the observatory hill, the place of British sojourn in the congenial weather of Simla where the searing glint of Sun has no access. The windy afternoon slowly turned to a moderate storm as we began our journey and like a ruffian to afflict our drive to the observatory hill, Simla, trampled on the windscreen of our car, might be reminding us the strict British rule that banned general vehicles to ply on the streets of Simla. It is hard to believe; on a modern motor driven road of Simla that rickshaw was the common mode of conveyance till the British domination. Until the Kalka Simla railway was operational from 9-th November 1903, the retreat convoy of the Viceroy usually reached Simla from Kalka by road on Tonga, bullock carts and their belongings on porters back.

The Viceroyal Palace,Simla

Our car stopped near the open space where journey of Indian Viceroy of British regime used to end every year at the arrival of hot season. While walking towards the entrance, I felt very strange reminding that Indian were not allowed to walk even on the Mall of Simla till the end of World War I.

Retaining its elite class since the British era of Viceroyalty, the discriminating Scottish styled castle like architecture designed by Irish architect Henry Irwin has been dedicated after Indian independence to the elite scholars of Indian Institute of Advanced Study. Surrounded in an array of upright trees with a superb lawn in its front the huge palace happened to be summer retreat of the Viceroy of India or a retreat into luxury for the successor of Mughal in India. The venue for many historic meetings since the Viceroyalty of Lord Dufferin, the erstwhile summer palace undergone some changes in its interior design to meet the requirement of the Indian Institute of Advanced Study.

Meeting the history

Red fort,Delhi

A glimpse of the red sandstone ramparts of Red Fort beside the swarming street of Delhi elucidated its Mughal lineage and appeared like a landmark of Mughal domination in India at the apogee of power. In its unimpeded look, I was awestruck by the sight of Lahore gate; familiar face of the fort, from where Prime Minister of India unfurls the Indian tricolour every year, the sight of Indian tricolour reminded the zeal and determination of Indian freedom fighters to hoist the tricolour on the fort.

Red fort, Delhi

Besieged by Indian security, the Red Fort emerged like a symbol of power that was visibly very close but, inaccessible, where the definition of “power” has gone through a series of evolution, during the time of Mughal Monarchy, Colonial regime, and Democratic rule after Indian independence.

Ramparts of Red fort,Delhi

Built by the emperor Shahjahan in seventeenth century, the Red Fort or Laal Qila has witnessed the glamorous days of Mughal regime, witnessed a declining Mughal domination and ravages on the street of Delhi by marauding band of Nadir Shah, witnessed the end of Mughal regime and advent of Wiltshire Regiment of British to replace the Mughal army, witnessed the excruciating trial to oust Mughal emperor Bahadur Shah and nearly a century later, trial of the soldiers of Ajad Hind Fauj (Indian National Army) of Netaji Subhas at the same spot by the British government, witnessed the sun up of independent India on 15-th August 1947 with the unfurled tricolour hoisted for the first time, to commemorate Indian independence.

Inside view and British barracks inside Red fort,Delhi 

It was the Red Fort, an inexhaustible platform of hoisting historic events, where history has its ceaseless journey since medieval age to the present. With the holidaying crowd, we began our awaited rendezvous with the landmark of eternal sheen or to sate the thirst of experiencing history in the array of bereft buildings.

Shape of a dream

Apart from piquant cuisine, colourful outfits and transfixing ceremonies, city of Jaipur, Rajasthan, has priceless ensemble of historic monuments. Unique in architectural design, the palaces, astronomical observatory, forts of Jaipur reflect the spirit of a vibrant city and they are a treasure of lore. Series of interminable strong ramparts of Aamer fort of Jaipur on the Aravalli hills kindle the feeling of experiencing Great Wall of China. The outright symbol of intransigence and resolute grit of Rajput warriors, Aamer fort or Amber fort of Rajasthan is the reminder of ebullient phase of Indian History.

Road to Aamer fort,Jaipur

Keeping the dark coloured Maota Lake in our left, our vehicle started to scale the slopes to the fort, the road happened to be thronged with marching queues of war elephants, lancers on camel and horseback has become congested with tourist vehicles. Imposing beauty of Aamer fort slowly enveloped us in the perplexing extravaganza of delight. Where natural and manmade beauties were mingled in abundance and the hypnotising ambience lured us by the power its elegance.

Aamer fort,Jaipur

It was inestimably huge and enigmatic to speculate, how the hefty structure of Aamer fort, the erstwhile capital of Jaipur was erected so many years ago on the top of Aravalli hills. The hilltop once hummed by the illustrious personalities of history, I found the premises of Aamer fort was entirely filled with tourists and photo enthusiasts. Getting down from the car, we began walking on the stone paved approach road to enter into the premises where galore of colours has been interlaced with fascinating tales of bravery. The picturesque beauty of a Rajput kingdom situated in the midst of natural wall of hills surprised us with the splendid opulence of Royal legacies, remnant of an era where veritable exemplar of colourful days of Royal inhabitation could be freshly felt in every corner.

Inside Aamer fort,Jaipur

With my leaping eyes from atop the castle, I was overwhelmed by the memories of fascinating tales of my childhood and I began to locate afar the hill where Royal treasure was buried, sometime exploring the clouds of dust churned by the hooves of horses and sometime envisaging a swishing sword of Rajput warrior flashing into the sky. The deepening twilight darkened the water of the lake to mark the end of an eventful day. Slowly darkness shrouded the entirety and we were on our way to leave the fort.

Eternal beauty

Hawa Mahal,Jaipur

Amidst the main market area and bustling city of Jaipur, Hawa Mahal or the Palace of Wind appeared to me like a memento of colourful days of the Kings and Queens. With panoramic view of vast stretch of Aravalli hills, experiencing the upright example of Rajput architecture dipped in welcoming pink colour was like a splashing sensation filled my mind with delectation and conveyed the true flavour and grandeur of the vibrant city. It was very surprising to me that, instead of constructing interminable stretch of defensive walls or in lieu of exhibiting valour in the battlefield, the warriors built Hawa Mahal, to entertain the veiled royal ladies so that, they could watch the activities of the city, staying hidden in the curtain walls. The two hundred years old architectural curtain was in its untiring presence and was upstanding as ever with discriminating display of superbly carved windows.

Street of Pink city,Jaipur

The famous Hawa Mahal or literally the superb architectural veil with 953- windows, amidst main market of the Pink City was built by the king of Jaipur Sawai Pratap Singh in 1799 for the royal ladies, so that they could watch the activities taking place in the bazaar and the surrounding streets behind the decorative stone-carved screens. The initiation of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II to shift their capital from the hilltop of Aravalli hills was the result of Jaipur city in 1727 and that was the foundation stone laid in the mind of the Rajput warriors to build such a picturesque city.
The mighty pyramidal shaped five storey building overlooks one of the Jaipur`s main streets with its shape like a crown adorning Lord Krishna`s head. Unique thinking and superb creativity is associated with the architecture. The site offers a superb view of the city, including many old palaces and houses, which were painted ochre-pink for the 1853 visit of Prince Albert.
Hawa Mahal, amidst the bustle of Jaipur city sweetly conveyed the message that there is no limit for innovative creations. Time has erased the memories of bloodsheds but, the legacy of art and architecture of the era of Kings and Queens has their effect of everlasting remembrance.

Signature of reverence

Tajmahal,Agra

                                                       “.......... a drop of tears,
                                                        On the cheek of time, dazzling and white,
                                                         This Tajmahal”
                      from the lines of poem “ Shahjahan” by Rabindranath Tagore

I was awestruck by the first sight, and charmed by the unique manifestation of love. Tajmahal was in front of me, doused in soft warmth of the Sun and adorned in the glistening snow white crown, like a grand celebration of love. I was gleefully stared at the spectacular Tajmahal, the heavenly creation on earth. Tajmahal, where a flawless painting on a huge structure of white marble has been interlaced the ever green symbol of love and romance of Emperor Shah Jahan. The spectacular result of 22-years hard work of an assemblage of finest artisans mingled their exquisite creativity with the doleful shades of an emperor in memory of his beloved wife.

Tajmahal,the poem of love on white marble

History has numerous examples of ruthless bloodsheds but, the Tajmahal is an exception to introduce us with the humane qualities of an emperor rather than his achievements as a warrior. It is the finest example, where love has achieved an overwhelming success over the fury of blood sheds. I felt the symbol of eternal love through its speechless presence was saying-“at last love rules.”

droplet of tear on the cheek of eternity,Tajmahal

“Tajmahal” the expression of deepest heartfelt pain of an emperor to depart from his beloved wife is portrayed in the architectural wonder on the bank of Yamuna. It is perhaps the greatest single building on earth designed to house the human remains. Built by Mughal emperor Shahjahan in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaj after her death in 1631 and Shahjahan was buried by his son Aurangzeb beside Mumtaj after his death in 1666. Entirely built of White marble and based on Persian architecture, the architectural design known as interlocking arabesque has been used in construction. Each element of the structure can stand on its own and integrate with the main structure. The Tajmahal was named a United Nations World Heritage site in 1983.

The landmark of conquest

Qutub Minar, Delhi

In glimmer of Sun, the array of derelict and roofless structures in the premises of Qutub Minar, Delhi took us to a voyage of history. The voyage that emphasizing on the love for art, took us thousand years back to experience how a new form of art was born with Muslim invasion in India. The tallest stone tower on earth, Qutub Minar emerged unstintingly upright with its ever spectacular semblance and immediately hypnotised us with its discriminating beauty. The architectural legacy on red sandstone, embellished with Arabic inscriptions appeared like splendid piece of art.

The frieze from the Arabic texts

The premise of decrepit roofless structures, with the thousand years old upstanding and spectacular minaret was like a reminder of medieval History of India. The assortments of decrepit structures survived through centuries are the witness of important phase of Indian history. It has witnessed beginning of a new era of art and architecture with political conquest, which evolved and attained the height of excellence.

embellished body of Qutub Minar, Delhi

It is among the top rated and most visited tourist destination and one of the top Indian monuments recognised worldwide. The impressive architecture with 238ft. height is considered as a landmark of the beginning of Muslim rule in India. Qutub Minar, Delhi. The UNESCO World heritage site was built 1192 by Qutub-ud-Din-Aibak and sultan`s successor and son-in-law, Iltutmis, completed it. In 1368 Firoz Shah Tughlak constructed the fifth and the last storey. The development of architectural styles from Aibak to Tughlak is quite evident in the minaret.

array of colonnade in the Qutub Minar complex 

I was surprised to know that Qutub Minar is not the tallest or the oldest minaret on earth. But, the aura of history associated and impressions architectural development that is imprinted on this architecture is matchless.

Qutub Minar,Delhi

India has a history of numerous invasions, apart from mass killing which also had a tremendous impact on its pre-existing art and culture but, at the end nobody acclaimed immortality except their unique impressions of love for art.

Statue of bereft grit

Purana Qila,Delhi

The panoramic lake, abutting boundary of Purana Qila, Delhi might have kept the fort insuperable from enemies is now used for boating. The breathtaking view of crowned gateway of the decrepit fort was like a reminder of a bereft grit. According to History, I was standing at Indraprastha, the capital of Pandavas of Mahabharata. Purana Qila is also popularly known as the fort of Pandavas. It was built, demolished, re-built and renamed several times and through the ages different human civilizations have kept here their impressions of existence.

Entrance of Purana Qila,Delhi

In the premises of crumbling ruins of Purana Qila, excavations have revealed the settlements and construction works during Sunga, Saka, Kushana, Gupta era dating back to even third century B.C., was like a treasure of curiosity for the History lovers and like a natural treatise of human civilizations. The area under vast stretch of derelict ramparts was a symbol of power and happened to be erstwhile capital of Rajputs, Mughals, Afghans, where the trumpets of war elephants, sound of hooves of horses of warriors reverberated or a place once it was filled with bustles of human activities now bereft of human habitation and deserted.

Qila-e-Kuhna mosque,or Sher Shah mosque,Purana Qila,Delhi

It was inexplicably ecstatic experience to share the soil for awhile, within the vast stretch of rampart, I was standing at a place where the greatest warriors of History have laid their footprint, the creepers have overrun the stone walls with their banners of existence like numerous settlements existed and vanished towards extinction. It was rather like a walk of present age, on numerous human settlements buried under the earth.

The crowned gateway of Purana Qila,Delhi

Mughal emperor Humayun, named the place Dinpanch and it served the as capital of Humayun and Sher Shah Suri during their reign. The structures survived over centuries of the decrepit fort have their own story to tell about the incidents and mishaps of History happened here. The library also called Sher Mandal where Humayan slipped from stairs and died or the spectacular Qila-e-Kuhna mosque built by Sher Shah Suri in 1541were still upright. The silent witness of many incidents it was the place where the Humayun was buried initially before his body was shifted to its existing place and it is the place where dreams of a Hindu King shattered after second battle of Panipat, or served as the shelter for refugees after partition of India.

In the approaching evening we finished our Purana Qila visit and before leaving, once again I looked back. Like mirth of destiny the gloomy desolate capital was like waiting, might be looking towards regaining its lost sheen.