Thotlakonda: the story unveiled

We were on our way to the place where the 2000 years old relics of Buddhist monastic complex have been unearthed on excavation. The monastic ruins of the settlement of Mangamaripeta or popularly known Thotlakonda, were 16-kms away from the Vizag town, at the top of a hillock and near the quiet seashore of the Bay of Bengal. The place offered an exquisite view of the Bay of Bengal. It was silence everywhere and my vision leaped from the hill top and far away it appeared like a point of meeting of the sea, sky and soil, a splendid picture frame of soothing colours. The picturesque tranquil surround was perfectly suited to meditate in the midst of the gracious nature. The wide view of the generous sea shore, meeting with the hill and deep blue sky made us spellbound. The Buddhist monastic teachers found their ideal place for establishing the college of religion.

Bay of Bengal from Thotlakonda

The relics of the settlement were first noticed during an aerial survey of the Indian Navy, and consequently an archaeological excavation unveiled the unuttered stories of the Hinayana Buddhist settlement of around third century B.C. The Hinayanas believe that, strict monastic life only can lead to the Nirvana. This sect of the Buddhism is considered as the earliest version of Buddhism and they firmly defy all worldly comfort on their way to attain the Nirvana. Third century B.C. was to some extent during the reign of King Asoka of Kalinga (during 273-232 B.C.) who also accepted Buddhism. The period when the Indian sea traders had business ties with many countries and many kings of India accepted Buddhism and took initiatives to spread the Buddhism worldwide. Under the Royal patronage, Buddhism was accepted as the state religion of many countries and students from different countries used to come to India to receive religious lessons ignoring the fear of unknown routes. The Hinayana Buddhists are now limited to mainly in Sri Lanka and Myanmar.

relics of the settlement at Thotlakonda

The base structures of the relics were seen only rose on the earth. The design of the monastic constructions could be imagined from the miniature stupas, spread near the unearthed complex.

miniature structure at Thotlakonda

The monastic complex had everything in it, Kitchen, dining hall, prayer hall, hostel, assembly halls. The guide took us to a reservoir, still filled with water. The perennial source was used for main storage of drinking water in the complex and was fit for consumptions even few years before also. The drinking water supplies in the complex were made, through many dug cisterns on the solid rocks of the hillock. It was amazing to watch an example of rain water harvesting in a place, surrounded by the sea.

reservoir at Thotlakonda Buddhist settlement

The relatively calm sea shore of the Bay of Bengal was ideal for the voyagers to anchor their ship and the shore line could be monitored easily from this hill top. On excavation, several Roman coins among other articles were also unearthed from the relics, which indicate towards the business ties with that country. It was said, that the complex was deserted near the third century A.D. due to some probable reasons, might be due to the fall of sea trading between other countries or may be due to other rising religions or other sects of Buddhism started to gain popularity. Since then, Thotlakonda, the deserted heaven on earth remained unnoticed and got veiled under the cover of time. In such an isolated place, it was the hard work, which was the inspiration behind the establishment of a human settlement that existed for several centuries.