The torn dreams

I felt again the roaring sound of waves at the offer for sea tour. The wide sea shores of Vizag with deep blue colours were calling me and I surrendered before the call to respond from the core of my heart. The irresistible attractions of the deep blue sea made me discover again in the sea beach, with all its ever youthful and imposing moods of the resplendent surrounding.
It was a desire to touch the time I have left behind, to rediscover me in the alluring display of eternal beauties of nature.

the imposing night,Vizag

I could even feel the romanticism of uninterrupted sea bathing, amidst the generous nature. The aerial view of the twinkling town, I witnessed at night. The attractively glowing lights were like garlands and the gleaming street lights were like a stream of molten Lava. The galore of ecstatic scenario of the engrossing memoirs I preserved in my mind. The endless hours of boundless roam through the wide roads amidst the ravishing natural beauties. The sweet experience of Sun set at the beach, or the unending hours of watching the voyages leaving the shore for their unknown destinations.
                                        .......“I have looked upon those brilliant creatures,
                                                And now my heart is sore,
                                                All`s changed since I, hearing at twilight,
                                                The first time on this shore”..............
                  from the lines of poem, the wild Swans at Coole by W.B.Yeats 

the evening at the Vizag sea beach

The assembly of crowd at the beach were curiously watching the making of a sand sculpture, and I was mesmerized by the splendid piece of art, the way he made the bust of Lord Shiva so quickly. The creations I witnessed in my early visit may have fused somewhere in the sand. The thrashing waves were ready to wash away the creations as usual, as the time wipe off our present. The salty water rinsed my feet, on my way to shamble in the beach. In the windy evening, my mind filled with an unutterable felicity.

The sea shore at Rama Krishna beach,Vizag

The darkness was like a hasty warrior to proclaim it’s conquer over the entire surrounding. The prepossessing blue Bay of Bengal was getting ready to unite with the Kingdom of deep darkness. The foot marks I made on the sand were washed away before my eyes.
A ship was slowly sailing away from the port, for unknown destination. My childhood dreams, to explore the never seen fairy land on a ship, or sailing in a fishing boat with the undaunted fishermen in the turbulent sea were still to be fulfilled.

on the way to bag the Sun at Vizag

Far away from the shore, a fishing boat was seemingly bagged the entire setting Sun in its sailcloth. With the thrust of the sea gale the darkness wiped the line of horizon. Only the undying roars of the sea waves could be heard. It was the time again, to say a good bye.

A small India

The day was scorch and humid in Malda. We were experiencing a burning sensation due to the scorching Sun, even inside the car. Though it was during an early summer, but perceived comparatively hot weather, no wind from any direction, only the Sun was exhaling the heat. We were on the journey to witness the footmarks of the celebrated leaders of the ancient Bengal. On our way, through the Malda town with the common picture of rush, of urban road traffic, after a kilometres drive, a left turn took us away to new scenario of a village.

 trident on Salami Darwaja,Malda

In this part of West Bengal, where the relics Buddhism of seventh century A.D. were unearthed .The town where the relics of mainly the fifteenth and sixteenth century settlements of Royal Muslim rule could also be seen. In the relics of many mosques and ancient building walls of Malda, the presence of engraved idols and weapons of Hindu god could also be clearly seen, the architectures, evidently establish the fact of co-existence of different religious settlements.

Ramkeli temple,Malda

It was our visit to the historic “Vaisnav” temple complex of Ramkeli, Malda, and where Sri Chaitanyadeva visited more than five hundred years ago with the auspicious mission to enjoin his disciples, the right way to unite with the God. In the history of medieval India Sri Chaitanyadeva, the leading name of Bhakti (cult) movement visited Ramkeli and met with Roop and Sanatan, the brothers were, the ministers in the court of Sultan Hussein Shah (1493 -1519) and under the instruction of Sri Chaitanyadeva the brothers gave up their Royal service to join in the line of Vaisnavs. The quiet environment of the premises speaks the visit of the courageous leader defying the fear of being sentenced to Jail by the Sultan for making his ministers spiritually rebel.

Roop & Sanatan at Ramkeli temple,Malda

Inside the temple, the pictures and idols of Vaisnav religious preachers were worshipped along with the idols of other deities. In the displayed deities, I saw first time, the picture of Roop and Sanatan Goswami, I read on them only in books previously. The figures of the brothers in the black and white picture were almost faint and the age of the photo could be estimated. Identical coloured pictures were also kept and worshipped might be that was reproduced later. It was the place; proudly exhibit the footprints of Sri Chaitanyadeva. The tree still exist, under which Sri Chaitanyadeva met with the brothers, the two eminent scholars of Sanskrit literature Roop and Sanatan Goswami. Throughout his life Chaitanyadeva devoted himself to extricate the bitter feeling among different religions, he brought sweet breeze of brotherhood. Ramkeli commemorate the visit of Sri Chaitanyadeva during the Ramkeli fair every year. During the fair, lakhs of pilgrims come and unite, ignoring the hot eyes of remorseless Sun in summer to honour the presence of Sri Chaitanyadeva in Malda. The temple complex where the great preacher once strolled made us feel his godly presence mingled in the air and even in chant of hymns or in tinkling bells He could be felt.
                                             
                                            "Lead me from the Unreal to the Real
                                             From Darkness to Light
                                             From Death to Immortality"
                                                                               I prayed to Him.

Ramkeli temple,Malda

Chinese traveller Hiu-en Tsang visited to learn religious lessons of Buddhism from the monastries existed in Malda. Sri Chaitanyadeva visited Malda with the wish to eliminate all ill feelings between the different religions, the place houses the footprint of Prophet Muhammad, William Carey the prominent missionary Christian worked towards mankind. It was like rediscovering the united picture of India in diversity. It was greatly enticing experience to remember. Our journey began, for the concluding part of the Malda site seeing.

Thotlakonda: the story unveiled

We were on our way to the place where the 2000 years old relics of Buddhist monastic complex have been unearthed on excavation. The monastic ruins of the settlement of Mangamaripeta or popularly known Thotlakonda, were 16-kms away from the Vizag town, at the top of a hillock and near the quiet seashore of the Bay of Bengal. The place offered an exquisite view of the Bay of Bengal. It was silence everywhere and my vision leaped from the hill top and far away it appeared like a point of meeting of the sea, sky and soil, a splendid picture frame of soothing colours. The picturesque tranquil surround was perfectly suited to meditate in the midst of the gracious nature. The wide view of the generous sea shore, meeting with the hill and deep blue sky made us spellbound. The Buddhist monastic teachers found their ideal place for establishing the college of religion.

Bay of Bengal from Thotlakonda

The relics of the settlement were first noticed during an aerial survey of the Indian Navy, and consequently an archaeological excavation unveiled the unuttered stories of the Hinayana Buddhist settlement of around third century B.C. The Hinayanas believe that, strict monastic life only can lead to the Nirvana. This sect of the Buddhism is considered as the earliest version of Buddhism and they firmly defy all worldly comfort on their way to attain the Nirvana. Third century B.C. was to some extent during the reign of King Asoka of Kalinga (during 273-232 B.C.) who also accepted Buddhism. The period when the Indian sea traders had business ties with many countries and many kings of India accepted Buddhism and took initiatives to spread the Buddhism worldwide. Under the Royal patronage, Buddhism was accepted as the state religion of many countries and students from different countries used to come to India to receive religious lessons ignoring the fear of unknown routes. The Hinayana Buddhists are now limited to mainly in Sri Lanka and Myanmar.

relics of the settlement at Thotlakonda

The base structures of the relics were seen only rose on the earth. The design of the monastic constructions could be imagined from the miniature stupas, spread near the unearthed complex.

miniature structure at Thotlakonda

The monastic complex had everything in it, Kitchen, dining hall, prayer hall, hostel, assembly halls. The guide took us to a reservoir, still filled with water. The perennial source was used for main storage of drinking water in the complex and was fit for consumptions even few years before also. The drinking water supplies in the complex were made, through many dug cisterns on the solid rocks of the hillock. It was amazing to watch an example of rain water harvesting in a place, surrounded by the sea.

reservoir at Thotlakonda Buddhist settlement

The relatively calm sea shore of the Bay of Bengal was ideal for the voyagers to anchor their ship and the shore line could be monitored easily from this hill top. On excavation, several Roman coins among other articles were also unearthed from the relics, which indicate towards the business ties with that country. It was said, that the complex was deserted near the third century A.D. due to some probable reasons, might be due to the fall of sea trading between other countries or may be due to other rising religions or other sects of Buddhism started to gain popularity. Since then, Thotlakonda, the deserted heaven on earth remained unnoticed and got veiled under the cover of time. In such an isolated place, it was the hard work, which was the inspiration behind the establishment of a human settlement that existed for several centuries.

Toy Train of Darjeeling

It brings in mind, of a fairy land, covered with picturesque hills, where the clouds play hide and seek with snow clad mountains. It was like listening to the fairy tale in the form of Toy Train, where the coaches of the train were like match box and tiny engine used to drag the coaches on narrow track at very slow speed that, even a bicycle rider could easily overtake a running train. It was enigmatic to hear that the fun seekers even used to board in or exit from a running train. Since childhood, I used to see the toy train in my dream, moving up to the land of happiness in a dazzling Sunny day, through the lush green forests. The passion began to witness the toy train since childhood.
My first encounter with the sweetheart of my childhood, when I saw, the toy train was on its way getting disappeared in the thick cover of fog, is still fresh in my memory.

Toy Train engine at Darjeeling

When it was observed from close, I found the presence of history everywhere. The Railway stations, in the coaches that used to carry passengers, in steam engines, in the car sheds or in the unique environment of the nest of the toy train i.e. Darjeeling where the history, the legacies of the past could be felt. The dream child of the then rulers of India brought revolution through its wheels in the history of transportation system.

monument at Sukna

The toy train began its first phase of journey to the Darjeeling hills on the 23-rd August 1880. Sukna, the place 11-kms away from the Siliguri happened to be most important rail station, in the golden days of the Darjeeling Toy Train. In this part, first Indian Toy Train service was introduced, that subsequently resulted establishment of new localities and brought development in those areas. The idea of laying a railway line through the terrain of the Darjeeling hills materialized transportation in a big scale. On its journey, a person used to stand in front of the steam engine, and sprinkle sands on the rail tracks, to ensure a solid grip of the wheels on the track. The toy train in its heyday used to run to and fro with passengers and cargo between Siliguri and Darjeeling. The rail tracks or the narrow gauge of the toy train were initially laid through the heart of Siliguri town and in 1962 that was diverted and extended through a different way. The rail tracks on which the Toy train began its journey have been buried under the asphalted Hill Cart Road in Siliguri town. Toy train or the Darjeeling Himalayan railway came under the North East frontier railway in 1958 with the motto of “Service before Self”.

Darjeeling Rail Station

The easy going days lasted no more, as speed was slowly getting introduced in life and the motorable road to Darjeeling started to become popular because of fast and time saving journey, the toy train remained a mere attraction for the joy ride.

Toy train in a new look,Darjeeling

New diesel engines were introduced, to add pace in the wheels of the toy train. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway was the first Indian Toy Train service to be awarded with the title of World Heritage Site of the UNESCO. It could be seen, different states of India, where toy trains earn good revenue with modern infrastructure. We the lovers of Toy Train of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway love to see it again to be running fast, reminding of the memory lanes to the hills of peace and tranquility, loaded with passengers and steaming off all the worries, the tiny wheels will revolve again to run, playing hide and seek through the mountain ranges.

The warrior monk

We were on a trip to visit the statue of Guru Padmasambhav built on the hill of Namchi, Sikkim. The place called the Samdruptse, is among the most popular tourist destinations of Sikkim. The highest Buddhist statue,whose foundation stone was laid by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. The Jeep was running through the road with picturesque landscapes. A bright Sunny morning, the Sun was gently providing his father like presence with warmth, even the tea leaves of the garden in the slopes of the hills were also reflecting the Sunlight.

The statue of Guru Padmasambhav at Namchi

The place, away from the hustles of everyday life, with an ideal environment to meditate. Guru Padmasabbhav in his attire of a fearless warrior, with weapons of Bajra(thunderbolt), trident and snakes, reminded me two particular Hindu God. Several similarities have been noticed between the Hinduism and the Buddhism. It may be mentioned that Lord Buddha , considered as one of the ten incarnations of the Lord Vishnu in Hinduism. The energetic eyes of Guru padmasambhav, were like erupting the fire and his vision seem to have fixed intensely on some object far away. The stainless blue sky in the backdrop added more glare with fierce on the 135 ft. high statue . A saint with fiery eyes, was very unusual in the religion of Love and compassion i.e. Buddhism. The calm and meditating posture of Lord Buddha could not be found.

Guru Padmasambhav with his trident,Namchi,Sikkim

More than thousand years ago, it was the story of that period, when India had a glorious history of enlightenment with civilization and Indian traders established their trade relations with many countries.The routes of trade were through the sea, as well as through the Himalayan region.With the expansion of trade, many religious teachers from India with the enlightened flames of rich Indian culture also started travelling to many countries to propagate their religious teaching.That time Buddhism was propagated with great acceptance among different nations of the world.Several Historical research and Archaeological excavations have proved that Buddhism was accepted in many countries, before their existing religion.
In the eighth century A.D., Padmasambhav the Indian Buddhist monk visited the Tibet with the mission to propagate the Buddhism.The King of the Tibet had his queens,who were follower of Buddhism. So, under the Royal influence, the Buddhism was propagated and accepted by the common people with overwhelming success. The exponent of martial art, founded the Lamaism or the priests in Tibetan Buddhism. He introduced the vajrayana Buddhism, or the tantric way or the way of ritualistic practices of achieving the Nirvana. There are several distinct sects of Buddhism.Guru Padmasambhav was the follower of the Mahayana Buddhism, though he felt that the Nirvana could be attained in single birth. Padmasambhav was a scholar of the Sanskrit literature; he translated many Sanskrit religious sutras into the Tibetan language. The fierce eyes of the Guru Padmasambhav might be due to the social hurdles he overcame to establish his religious belief of Buddhism in Tibet. “If you want peace prepare for war.”

The Lamas:Tibetan Buddhists monks

The Lamas of Tibet brought their ritualistic culture and practices of Buddhism in India.In Sikkim, Bhutan and Tibet he is considered as next to Gautama Buddha. The fierce eyes of Guru Padmasambhav is still memorably engrossed in my mind; it opened a facet of the Buddhism before my eyes. I discovered my own god in his form.

The forgotten port

Bheemili

On our way to the Bhimunipatnam or Bheemili the Bay of Bengal was at the right side of the wide road, I have never had an experience of watching such exquisitely beautiful colour of the sea, the place where the sun rise from the sea can be witnessed, and my eyes were glued to the picturesque beauty of nature. The explicit generosity of the nature could be witnessed everywhere. I was spellbound.
The driver gave an introduction of the Bheemili, in his word- the place existed even in the days of the Mahabharata, as the name of the beach was after Bheema. During the agyatabaas of the Pandavaas or during the period of staying in disguise Bheema killed Bakasura or the demon in disguise of a heron, at the Bheemili. The point of entry of the river Gosthani (Gov means the cow and sthani means the mammary glands) into the Bay of Bengal. Bheemili is about 25-kms away from Vizag.

The temple,that served as the landmark: Narsimha temple

Bheemili with its quiet sea shore was one of the best suited ports to pursue the sea trading. Studies revealed that even 2000 years ago the sailors of this part of India were aware of the nature of the monsoon winds and did pursue their trading applying their expertise on this subject. The Narasimha temple of Bheemili port had been a prominent land mark for the sailors. The port of the past of Bheemili has ruined into the sea.In ancient time of sea trading, India was the prime exporter of spices, Cotton, sugar, rice, wheat, ivory made articles and lots of other items to different countries including Rome. Indian traders brought Silver and Gold coins in exchange and that resulted a bankruptcy in the ancient Rome,due to the heavy outflow of their currencies (i.e.Silver and Gold).Thotlakonda, a prominent tourist spot for its Buddhist monastic ruins and a few kilometres away from this place where Roman coins were unearthed on excavations proved that the traders pursued their business far away.
The Dutch arrived at the Bheemili in 1624 to pursue sea trading. After they secured permission for the sea trading from the Qutb Shahi Kings of Golkonda, Hyderabad, and during the period of trading from the Bheemili they started minting copper coins. Bheemili was given away to the Britishers in 1825. The Dutch and the British used the Bheemili port for their sea trade, even passenger voyage were operated to Madras (Chennai) and Calcutta (Kolkata) from the Bheemili port. Roman coins, even during the British rule in India, were also unearthed in many places of the South India on excavations. The Britishers stopped all its operations after the Second World War.

the grave

The Dutch cemetery stands as a reminder to the History of Dutch settlement in India. The Dutch and British burial with the curving on many graves shows marvellous craftsmanship, like a piece of magnificent art work. Federick Kesslerus died on 8-th October 1661,his grave is considered to be the earliest known Christian grave , the inscriptions so clearly visible with the reason of the death were also artistically engraved .It was seen on the grave of William A.H.Young (of Liverpool) chief officer of a ship died at the age of 23-years, who was killed by falling into the ship`s hold on 22-nd November 1831.The message of the heart felt pain of the family members to depart from the deceased ones has been inscripted on the grave. Their invisible presence around, could be felt in these expressions of love. The burial speaks the colonial glories, the legacies of the past.

view of the Bay of Bengal

I kept staring at the sea, from where, the voyage of Indian traders once left for unknown destinations, foreign sailors came and established their colony. The port ,with a history of Indian sea trade, and trading in the colonial era, now abandoned and standing as a reminder of past days. The tranquillity of the environment is still freshly occupied in my memory.

Jungle safari with the man in his Olive uniform

The guide was waiting for us at the entry point, after making all the formalities our Safari Jeep entered into the forest. I heard that the wild elephants were raiding in search of food in the nearby villages almost daily. It was really thrilling as I was not in a mood to return without sighting the wild animals, requested him to ensure my elephant sighting in the forest or in the village nearby where the elephants are going to raid.The guide in olive uniform smiled at me and assured me that sighting of elephant will surely be made.Though the sight of wild animals in the forests depends fully on the luck.

Wild elephant of Chilapa forest

We entered in the Chilapata forest, the beauty of the forest were very appealing, with envious density of trees. Chilapata forest is a corridor used by the wild elephants between Buxa Tiger reserve and Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary. As in this case my vision was getting restricted and could not look far through, and I was searching the wild elephant in the thick forest, suddenly the Jeep stopped and the guide pointed at a herd of elephants with calves. I got very impatient for a close look but, the man in his olive uniform forbade, the herd were having their calves and they remain very sensitive and do not like anybody in their close proximity. The calves in some cases reach closer to the tourists, unaware of the consequence if anybody even tries to get closer to the baby elephant that will result a serious anger to the elders of the herd. I was so occupied by the fact that, the thing for which I was ready to venture in the village of the locality got encountered so early within fifteen minutes of our entry into the forest. Kept watching at the herd, till they vanished into the dense forest.

The Gaur,Chilapata forest

I was a little absent minded and it was very charming for me to think about the encounter with elephants. Suddenly heard whisper between the driver and our guide and the Jeep was taken back. The man in olive uniform, in his habitual sight spotted a herd of Indian Bisons or Gaur. Huge in size with oily skin. Pointed my camera and through its eyepiece I saw, behind the camouflage of thick bushes a Bison was looking straight to me. The guide told that the skins of the Bisons always look oily and in no occasions even slight mud can be discovered on their skin. Always ready to charge, if they smell danger.

inside the forest,Chilapata forest

During the rainy season i.e. during 16-th June to 15-th September every year the forest is kept closed for the tourists, because it is the breeding season of animals, the grass inside the forest grow so fast, making it difficult for the drivers to drive their Jeep on the right track and that time visibility in the forest remains very poor. Our Jeep stopped at a point, my eyes wandered around with surprise; it resembled the spots we saw in films on wildlife. The placid climate of the surrounding would definitely attract the wildlife lovers.

Nol Rajar garh,Chilapata forest

As the Jeep started again, for the next destination of the Nol Raja-r Garh. The fort of King Nol. The garh or fort made of thin bricks like sliced breads, excavations revealed that some 2000 years ago during the Gupta age, the fort was used to keep King`s soldiers. The entry gate was 12-ft high when it was constructed. Now merely a few feet have remained to be sunk in the earth. It was amazing that, a fort was built so many years before, in such a dense forest with lots of ferocious wild animals around, where even the sound of falling leaves could be heard. The guide did not encourage staying inside the fort gate. Another thing the guide made us notice, the tree called “Raamgua” the tree that bleeds, he said a sticky blood like fluid comes out of this tree if it`s bark is poked with sharp edges. Grove of such trees existed earlier, now they are remaining in numbers. Several efforts to grow these trees in other places have failed, as it did not survive and can be found in Chilapata only.

Shankari:A kunki to be,Chilapata forest

Many tamed elephants or Kunki can be sighted, we saw a calf with the legs tied in ropes “Shankari”, was busy eating the grass. One day she might also be serving as a Kunki.

Kingfisher at Chilapata forest

We were heading towards the bank of Torsa River the watch tower for viewing the animals. The small stream of water which is Torsa gets flooded during the rainy season. Saw a peacock, jungle fowl, varieties of Kingfishers, and last of all saw the one horned Rhinoceros, flanked by her calf, was roaming in the elephant grass. The Sun was setting down. We started leaving the forest, through the village of “Rabha”, probably migratory tribe from the neighboring state ,mainly dependent on the forest. The Jeep again stopped, it was a herd of elephants again; they were emitting sound, like whispers. The driver took the Jeep back; it was a huge tusker looking at us silently, behind a tree. I felt a flow of electric current through my body; we were within its reach. I could not understand how it came so close. The driver made no delay to start the Jeep.

Our guide:the man in olive uniform

It was more than a productive tour in the forest. The day`s experience, the sight of animals throughout the day I got, was really wonderful. When the guide in olive uniform got down from the Jeep, it was the end of forest. He waved his hand “come again.”


How to reach: Nearest Station is New Alipurduar Junction. There are several trains from Kolkata. Teesta -Torsah Express from Sealdah or Kamrup Express from Howrah can be availed for New Alipurduar Junction, intercity express and many other trains from New Jalpaiguri station also available for New Alipurduar Junction, from there a car can be hired to the jungle camps. Jeeps for safari can be arranged from the tourist lodge and very recently the forest department has initiated safari on bullock cart. West Bengal tourism and West Bengal Forest Development Corporation provides accommodation, rooms can be booked online.
For other alternate options the relevant websites of different tour operators can also be checked.  Best time to visit: Except the monsoon, and better to visit the forest when length of the day is greater.