The torn dreams

I felt again the roaring sound of waves at the offer for sea tour. The wide sea shores of Vizag with deep blue colours were calling me and I surrendered before the call to respond from the core of my heart. The irresistible attractions of the deep blue sea made me discover again in the sea beach, with all its ever youthful and imposing moods of the resplendent surrounding.
It was a desire to touch the time I have left behind, to rediscover me in the alluring display of eternal beauties of nature.

the imposing night,Vizag

I could even feel the romanticism of uninterrupted sea bathing, amidst the generous nature. The aerial view of the twinkling town, I witnessed at night. The attractively glowing lights were like garlands and the gleaming street lights were like a stream of molten Lava. The galore of ecstatic scenario of the engrossing memoirs I preserved in my mind. The endless hours of boundless roam through the wide roads amidst the ravishing natural beauties. The sweet experience of Sun set at the beach, or the unending hours of watching the voyages leaving the shore for their unknown destinations.
                                        .......“I have looked upon those brilliant creatures,
                                                And now my heart is sore,
                                                All`s changed since I, hearing at twilight,
                                                The first time on this shore”..............
                  from the lines of poem, the wild Swans at Coole by W.B.Yeats 

the evening at the Vizag sea beach

The assembly of crowd at the beach were curiously watching the making of a sand sculpture, and I was mesmerized by the splendid piece of art, the way he made the bust of Lord Shiva so quickly. The creations I witnessed in my early visit may have fused somewhere in the sand. The thrashing waves were ready to wash away the creations as usual, as the time wipe off our present. The salty water rinsed my feet, on my way to shamble in the beach. In the windy evening, my mind filled with an unutterable felicity.

The sea shore at Rama Krishna beach,Vizag

The darkness was like a hasty warrior to proclaim it’s conquer over the entire surrounding. The prepossessing blue Bay of Bengal was getting ready to unite with the Kingdom of deep darkness. The foot marks I made on the sand were washed away before my eyes.
A ship was slowly sailing away from the port, for unknown destination. My childhood dreams, to explore the never seen fairy land on a ship, or sailing in a fishing boat with the undaunted fishermen in the turbulent sea were still to be fulfilled.

on the way to bag the Sun at Vizag

Far away from the shore, a fishing boat was seemingly bagged the entire setting Sun in its sailcloth. With the thrust of the sea gale the darkness wiped the line of horizon. Only the undying roars of the sea waves could be heard. It was the time again, to say a good bye.

A small India

The day was scorch and humid in Malda. We were experiencing a burning sensation due to the scorching Sun, even inside the car. Though it was during an early summer, but perceived comparatively hot weather, no wind from any direction, only the Sun was exhaling the heat. We were on the journey to witness the footmarks of the celebrated leaders of the ancient Bengal. On our way, through the Malda town with the common picture of rush, of urban road traffic, after a kilometres drive, a left turn took us away to new scenario of a village.

 trident on Salami Darwaja,Malda

In this part of West Bengal, where the relics Buddhism of seventh century A.D. were unearthed .The town where the relics of mainly the fifteenth and sixteenth century settlements of Royal Muslim rule could also be seen. In the relics of many mosques and ancient building walls of Malda, the presence of engraved idols and weapons of Hindu god could also be clearly seen, the architectures, evidently establish the fact of co-existence of different religious settlements.

Ramkeli temple,Malda

It was our visit to the historic “Vaisnav” temple complex of Ramkeli, Malda, and where Sri Chaitanyadeva visited more than five hundred years ago with the auspicious mission to enjoin his disciples, the right way to unite with the God. In the history of medieval India Sri Chaitanyadeva, the leading name of Bhakti (cult) movement visited Ramkeli and met with Roop and Sanatan, the brothers were, the ministers in the court of Sultan Hussein Shah (1493 -1519) and under the instruction of Sri Chaitanyadeva the brothers gave up their Royal service to join in the line of Vaisnavs. The quiet environment of the premises speaks the visit of the courageous leader defying the fear of being sentenced to Jail by the Sultan for making his ministers spiritually rebel.

Roop & Sanatan at Ramkeli temple,Malda

Inside the temple, the pictures and idols of Vaisnav religious preachers were worshipped along with the idols of other deities. In the displayed deities, I saw first time, the picture of Roop and Sanatan Goswami, I read on them only in books previously. The figures of the brothers in the black and white picture were almost faint and the age of the photo could be estimated. Identical coloured pictures were also kept and worshipped might be that was reproduced later. It was the place; proudly exhibit the footprints of Sri Chaitanyadeva. The tree still exist, under which Sri Chaitanyadeva met with the brothers, the two eminent scholars of Sanskrit literature Roop and Sanatan Goswami. Throughout his life Chaitanyadeva devoted himself to extricate the bitter feeling among different religions, he brought sweet breeze of brotherhood. Ramkeli commemorate the visit of Sri Chaitanyadeva during the Ramkeli fair every year. During the fair, lakhs of pilgrims come and unite, ignoring the hot eyes of remorseless Sun in summer to honour the presence of Sri Chaitanyadeva in Malda. The temple complex where the great preacher once strolled made us feel his godly presence mingled in the air and even in chant of hymns or in tinkling bells He could be felt.
                                             
                                            "Lead me from the Unreal to the Real
                                             From Darkness to Light
                                             From Death to Immortality"
                                                                               I prayed to Him.

Ramkeli temple,Malda

Chinese traveller Hiu-en Tsang visited to learn religious lessons of Buddhism from the monastries existed in Malda. Sri Chaitanyadeva visited Malda with the wish to eliminate all ill feelings between the different religions, the place houses the footprint of Prophet Muhammad, William Carey the prominent missionary Christian worked towards mankind. It was like rediscovering the united picture of India in diversity. It was greatly enticing experience to remember. Our journey began, for the concluding part of the Malda site seeing.

Thotlakonda: the story unveiled

We were on our way to the place where the 2000 years old relics of Buddhist monastic complex have been unearthed on excavation. The monastic ruins of the settlement of Mangamaripeta or popularly known Thotlakonda, were 16-kms away from the Vizag town, at the top of a hillock and near the quiet seashore of the Bay of Bengal. The place offered an exquisite view of the Bay of Bengal. It was silence everywhere and my vision leaped from the hill top and far away it appeared like a point of meeting of the sea, sky and soil, a splendid picture frame of soothing colours. The picturesque tranquil surround was perfectly suited to meditate in the midst of the gracious nature. The wide view of the generous sea shore, meeting with the hill and deep blue sky made us spellbound. The Buddhist monastic teachers found their ideal place for establishing the college of religion.

Bay of Bengal from Thotlakonda

The relics of the settlement were first noticed during an aerial survey of the Indian Navy, and consequently an archaeological excavation unveiled the unuttered stories of the Hinayana Buddhist settlement of around third century B.C. The Hinayanas believe that, strict monastic life only can lead to the Nirvana. This sect of the Buddhism is considered as the earliest version of Buddhism and they firmly defy all worldly comfort on their way to attain the Nirvana. Third century B.C. was to some extent during the reign of King Asoka of Kalinga (during 273-232 B.C.) who also accepted Buddhism. The period when the Indian sea traders had business ties with many countries and many kings of India accepted Buddhism and took initiatives to spread the Buddhism worldwide. Under the Royal patronage, Buddhism was accepted as the state religion of many countries and students from different countries used to come to India to receive religious lessons ignoring the fear of unknown routes. The Hinayana Buddhists are now limited to mainly in Sri Lanka and Myanmar.

relics of the settlement at Thotlakonda

The base structures of the relics were seen only rose on the earth. The design of the monastic constructions could be imagined from the miniature stupas, spread near the unearthed complex.

miniature structure at Thotlakonda

The monastic complex had everything in it, Kitchen, dining hall, prayer hall, hostel, assembly halls. The guide took us to a reservoir, still filled with water. The perennial source was used for main storage of drinking water in the complex and was fit for consumptions even few years before also. The drinking water supplies in the complex were made, through many dug cisterns on the solid rocks of the hillock. It was amazing to watch an example of rain water harvesting in a place, surrounded by the sea.

reservoir at Thotlakonda Buddhist settlement

The relatively calm sea shore of the Bay of Bengal was ideal for the voyagers to anchor their ship and the shore line could be monitored easily from this hill top. On excavation, several Roman coins among other articles were also unearthed from the relics, which indicate towards the business ties with that country. It was said, that the complex was deserted near the third century A.D. due to some probable reasons, might be due to the fall of sea trading between other countries or may be due to other rising religions or other sects of Buddhism started to gain popularity. Since then, Thotlakonda, the deserted heaven on earth remained unnoticed and got veiled under the cover of time. In such an isolated place, it was the hard work, which was the inspiration behind the establishment of a human settlement that existed for several centuries.

Toy Train of Darjeeling

It brings in mind, of a fairy land, covered with picturesque hills, where the clouds play hide and seek with snow clad mountains. It was like listening to the fairy tale in the form of Toy Train, where the coaches of the train were like match box and tiny engine used to drag the coaches on narrow track at very slow speed that, even a bicycle rider could easily overtake a running train. It was enigmatic to hear that the fun seekers even used to board in or exit from a running train. Since childhood, I used to see the toy train in my dream, moving up to the land of happiness in a dazzling Sunny day, through the lush green forests. The passion began to witness the toy train since childhood.
My first encounter with the sweetheart of my childhood, when I saw, the toy train was on its way getting disappeared in the thick cover of fog, is still fresh in my memory.

Toy Train engine at Darjeeling

When it was observed from close, I found the presence of history everywhere. The Railway stations, in the coaches that used to carry passengers, in steam engines, in the car sheds or in the unique environment of the nest of the toy train i.e. Darjeeling where the history, the legacies of the past could be felt. The dream child of the then rulers of India brought revolution through its wheels in the history of transportation system.

monument at Sukna

The toy train began its first phase of journey to the Darjeeling hills on the 23-rd August 1880. Sukna, the place 11-kms away from the Siliguri happened to be most important rail station, in the golden days of the Darjeeling Toy Train. In this part, first Indian Toy Train service was introduced, that subsequently resulted establishment of new localities and brought development in those areas. The idea of laying a railway line through the terrain of the Darjeeling hills materialized transportation in a big scale. On its journey, a person used to stand in front of the steam engine, and sprinkle sands on the rail tracks, to ensure a solid grip of the wheels on the track. The toy train in its heyday used to run to and fro with passengers and cargo between Siliguri and Darjeeling. The rail tracks or the narrow gauge of the toy train were initially laid through the heart of Siliguri town and in 1962 that was diverted and extended through a different way. The rail tracks on which the Toy train began its journey have been buried under the asphalted Hill Cart Road in Siliguri town. Toy train or the Darjeeling Himalayan railway came under the North East frontier railway in 1958 with the motto of “Service before Self”.

Darjeeling Rail Station

The easy going days lasted no more, as speed was slowly getting introduced in life and the motorable road to Darjeeling started to become popular because of fast and time saving journey, the toy train remained a mere attraction for the joy ride.

Toy train in a new look,Darjeeling

New diesel engines were introduced, to add pace in the wheels of the toy train. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway was the first Indian Toy Train service to be awarded with the title of World Heritage Site of the UNESCO. It could be seen, different states of India, where toy trains earn good revenue with modern infrastructure. We the lovers of Toy Train of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway love to see it again to be running fast, reminding of the memory lanes to the hills of peace and tranquility, loaded with passengers and steaming off all the worries, the tiny wheels will revolve again to run, playing hide and seek through the mountain ranges.

The warrior monk

We were on a trip to visit the statue of Guru Padmasambhav built on the hill of Namchi, Sikkim. The place called the Samdruptse, is among the most popular tourist destinations of Sikkim. The highest Buddhist statue,whose foundation stone was laid by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. The Jeep was running through the road with picturesque landscapes. A bright Sunny morning, the Sun was gently providing his father like presence with warmth, even the tea leaves of the garden in the slopes of the hills were also reflecting the Sunlight.

The statue of Guru Padmasambhav at Namchi

The place, away from the hustles of everyday life, with an ideal environment to meditate. Guru Padmasabbhav in his attire of a fearless warrior, with weapons of Bajra(thunderbolt), trident and snakes, reminded me two particular Hindu God. Several similarities have been noticed between the Hinduism and the Buddhism. It may be mentioned that Lord Buddha , considered as one of the ten incarnations of the Lord Vishnu in Hinduism. The energetic eyes of Guru padmasambhav, were like erupting the fire and his vision seem to have fixed intensely on some object far away. The stainless blue sky in the backdrop added more glare with fierce on the 135 ft. high statue . A saint with fiery eyes, was very unusual in the religion of Love and compassion i.e. Buddhism. The calm and meditating posture of Lord Buddha could not be found.

Guru Padmasambhav with his trident,Namchi,Sikkim

More than thousand years ago, it was the story of that period, when India had a glorious history of enlightenment with civilization and Indian traders established their trade relations with many countries.The routes of trade were through the sea, as well as through the Himalayan region.With the expansion of trade, many religious teachers from India with the enlightened flames of rich Indian culture also started travelling to many countries to propagate their religious teaching.That time Buddhism was propagated with great acceptance among different nations of the world.Several Historical research and Archaeological excavations have proved that Buddhism was accepted in many countries, before their existing religion.
In the eighth century A.D., Padmasambhav the Indian Buddhist monk visited the Tibet with the mission to propagate the Buddhism.The King of the Tibet had his queens,who were follower of Buddhism. So, under the Royal influence, the Buddhism was propagated and accepted by the common people with overwhelming success. The exponent of martial art, founded the Lamaism or the priests in Tibetan Buddhism. He introduced the vajrayana Buddhism, or the tantric way or the way of ritualistic practices of achieving the Nirvana. There are several distinct sects of Buddhism.Guru Padmasambhav was the follower of the Mahayana Buddhism, though he felt that the Nirvana could be attained in single birth. Padmasambhav was a scholar of the Sanskrit literature; he translated many Sanskrit religious sutras into the Tibetan language. The fierce eyes of the Guru Padmasambhav might be due to the social hurdles he overcame to establish his religious belief of Buddhism in Tibet. “If you want peace prepare for war.”

The Lamas:Tibetan Buddhists monks

The Lamas of Tibet brought their ritualistic culture and practices of Buddhism in India.In Sikkim, Bhutan and Tibet he is considered as next to Gautama Buddha. The fierce eyes of Guru Padmasambhav is still memorably engrossed in my mind; it opened a facet of the Buddhism before my eyes. I discovered my own god in his form.

The forgotten port

Bheemili

On our way to the Bhimunipatnam or Bheemili the Bay of Bengal was at the right side of the wide road, I have never had an experience of watching such exquisitely beautiful colour of the sea, the place where the sun rise from the sea can be witnessed, and my eyes were glued to the picturesque beauty of nature. The explicit generosity of the nature could be witnessed everywhere. I was spellbound.
The driver gave an introduction of the Bheemili, in his word- the place existed even in the days of the Mahabharata, as the name of the beach was after Bheema. During the agyatabaas of the Pandavaas or during the period of staying in disguise Bheema killed Bakasura or the demon in disguise of a heron, at the Bheemili. The point of entry of the river Gosthani (Gov means the cow and sthani means the mammary glands) into the Bay of Bengal. Bheemili is about 25-kms away from Vizag.

The temple,that served as the landmark: Narsimha temple

Bheemili with its quiet sea shore was one of the best suited ports to pursue the sea trading. Studies revealed that even 2000 years ago the sailors of this part of India were aware of the nature of the monsoon winds and did pursue their trading applying their expertise on this subject. The Narasimha temple of Bheemili port had been a prominent land mark for the sailors. The port of the past of Bheemili has ruined into the sea.In ancient time of sea trading, India was the prime exporter of spices, Cotton, sugar, rice, wheat, ivory made articles and lots of other items to different countries including Rome. Indian traders brought Silver and Gold coins in exchange and that resulted a bankruptcy in the ancient Rome,due to the heavy outflow of their currencies (i.e.Silver and Gold).Thotlakonda, a prominent tourist spot for its Buddhist monastic ruins and a few kilometres away from this place where Roman coins were unearthed on excavations proved that the traders pursued their business far away.
The Dutch arrived at the Bheemili in 1624 to pursue sea trading. After they secured permission for the sea trading from the Qutb Shahi Kings of Golkonda, Hyderabad, and during the period of trading from the Bheemili they started minting copper coins. Bheemili was given away to the Britishers in 1825. The Dutch and the British used the Bheemili port for their sea trade, even passenger voyage were operated to Madras (Chennai) and Calcutta (Kolkata) from the Bheemili port. Roman coins, even during the British rule in India, were also unearthed in many places of the South India on excavations. The Britishers stopped all its operations after the Second World War.

the grave

The Dutch cemetery stands as a reminder to the History of Dutch settlement in India. The Dutch and British burial with the curving on many graves shows marvellous craftsmanship, like a piece of magnificent art work. Federick Kesslerus died on 8-th October 1661,his grave is considered to be the earliest known Christian grave , the inscriptions so clearly visible with the reason of the death were also artistically engraved .It was seen on the grave of William A.H.Young (of Liverpool) chief officer of a ship died at the age of 23-years, who was killed by falling into the ship`s hold on 22-nd November 1831.The message of the heart felt pain of the family members to depart from the deceased ones has been inscripted on the grave. Their invisible presence around, could be felt in these expressions of love. The burial speaks the colonial glories, the legacies of the past.

view of the Bay of Bengal

I kept staring at the sea, from where, the voyage of Indian traders once left for unknown destinations, foreign sailors came and established their colony. The port ,with a history of Indian sea trade, and trading in the colonial era, now abandoned and standing as a reminder of past days. The tranquillity of the environment is still freshly occupied in my memory.

Jungle safari with the man in his Olive uniform

The guide was waiting for us at the entry point, after making all the formalities our Safari Jeep entered into the forest. I heard that the wild elephants were raiding in search of food in the nearby villages almost daily. It was really thrilling as I was not in a mood to return without sighting the wild animals, requested him to ensure my elephant sighting in the forest or in the village nearby where the elephants are going to raid.The guide in olive uniform smiled at me and assured me that sighting of elephant will surely be made.Though the sight of wild animals in the forests depends fully on the luck.

Wild elephant of Chilapa forest

We entered in the Chilapata forest, the beauty of the forest were very appealing, with envious density of trees. Chilapata forest is a corridor used by the wild elephants between Buxa Tiger reserve and Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary. As in this case my vision was getting restricted and could not look far through, and I was searching the wild elephant in the thick forest, suddenly the Jeep stopped and the guide pointed at a herd of elephants with calves. I got very impatient for a close look but, the man in his olive uniform forbade, the herd were having their calves and they remain very sensitive and do not like anybody in their close proximity. The calves in some cases reach closer to the tourists, unaware of the consequence if anybody even tries to get closer to the baby elephant that will result a serious anger to the elders of the herd. I was so occupied by the fact that, the thing for which I was ready to venture in the village of the locality got encountered so early within fifteen minutes of our entry into the forest. Kept watching at the herd, till they vanished into the dense forest.

The Gaur,Chilapata forest

I was a little absent minded and it was very charming for me to think about the encounter with elephants. Suddenly heard whisper between the driver and our guide and the Jeep was taken back. The man in olive uniform, in his habitual sight spotted a herd of Indian Bisons or Gaur. Huge in size with oily skin. Pointed my camera and through its eyepiece I saw, behind the camouflage of thick bushes a Bison was looking straight to me. The guide told that the skins of the Bisons always look oily and in no occasions even slight mud can be discovered on their skin. Always ready to charge, if they smell danger.

inside the forest,Chilapata forest

During the rainy season i.e. during 16-th June to 15-th September every year the forest is kept closed for the tourists, because it is the breeding season of animals, the grass inside the forest grow so fast, making it difficult for the drivers to drive their Jeep on the right track and that time visibility in the forest remains very poor. Our Jeep stopped at a point, my eyes wandered around with surprise; it resembled the spots we saw in films on wildlife. The placid climate of the surrounding would definitely attract the wildlife lovers.

Nol Rajar garh,Chilapata forest

As the Jeep started again, for the next destination of the Nol Raja-r Garh. The fort of King Nol. The garh or fort made of thin bricks like sliced breads, excavations revealed that some 2000 years ago during the Gupta age, the fort was used to keep King`s soldiers. The entry gate was 12-ft high when it was constructed. Now merely a few feet have remained to be sunk in the earth. It was amazing that, a fort was built so many years before, in such a dense forest with lots of ferocious wild animals around, where even the sound of falling leaves could be heard. The guide did not encourage staying inside the fort gate. Another thing the guide made us notice, the tree called “Raamgua” the tree that bleeds, he said a sticky blood like fluid comes out of this tree if it`s bark is poked with sharp edges. Grove of such trees existed earlier, now they are remaining in numbers. Several efforts to grow these trees in other places have failed, as it did not survive and can be found in Chilapata only.

Shankari:A kunki to be,Chilapata forest

Many tamed elephants or Kunki can be sighted, we saw a calf with the legs tied in ropes “Shankari”, was busy eating the grass. One day she might also be serving as a Kunki.

Kingfisher at Chilapata forest

We were heading towards the bank of Torsa River the watch tower for viewing the animals. The small stream of water which is Torsa gets flooded during the rainy season. Saw a peacock, jungle fowl, varieties of Kingfishers, and last of all saw the one horned Rhinoceros, flanked by her calf, was roaming in the elephant grass. The Sun was setting down. We started leaving the forest, through the village of “Rabha”, probably migratory tribe from the neighboring state ,mainly dependent on the forest. The Jeep again stopped, it was a herd of elephants again; they were emitting sound, like whispers. The driver took the Jeep back; it was a huge tusker looking at us silently, behind a tree. I felt a flow of electric current through my body; we were within its reach. I could not understand how it came so close. The driver made no delay to start the Jeep.

Our guide:the man in olive uniform

It was more than a productive tour in the forest. The day`s experience, the sight of animals throughout the day I got, was really wonderful. When the guide in olive uniform got down from the Jeep, it was the end of forest. He waved his hand “come again.”


How to reach: Nearest Station is New Alipurduar Junction. There are several trains from Kolkata. Teesta -Torsah Express from Sealdah or Kamrup Express from Howrah can be availed for New Alipurduar Junction, intercity express and many other trains from New Jalpaiguri station also available for New Alipurduar Junction, from there a car can be hired to the jungle camps. Jeeps for safari can be arranged from the tourist lodge and very recently the forest department has initiated safari on bullock cart. West Bengal tourism and West Bengal Forest Development Corporation provides accommodation, rooms can be booked online.
For other alternate options the relevant websites of different tour operators can also be checked.  Best time to visit: Except the monsoon, and better to visit the forest when length of the day is greater.

Golkonda fort:my communion with the History

view of the Golkonda fort

With great surprise, I was looking at the Fateh Darwaja or the Victory Gate of the Golconda Fort, Hyderabad. The gate of Fateh or Victory was named after Aurangzeb`s army made an entry into the fort through this gate, and achieved their much awaited win. Huge in size, studded with giant spikes, and strong like a shield to meet any challenges, the door was strong enough to repulse the attack of even war elephants. A hole at the center of arch of the gate was kept, to pour boiling liquids on the elephants of the enemies in order to repulse an attack outside the gate. But, in reality the gate was opened from inside, before it could face the challenge of being battered down, and Mughal army under the leadership of Emperor Aurangzeb smoothly entered into the Golkonda Fort.

Fateh Darwaja

The guide was showing us the engineering marvels of Golkonda, sound of a hand clap under the dome at the entrance could be heard clearly at the highest point of the pavilion of the fort and which was a kilometre away. It acted for conveying a warning note to the residents in case of danger. I was asking myself, did anybody clap to alert the residents on the night of 16-th May 1687 when Mughals were attempting to escalade the fort with ladders for a silent entry into the fort? Or the dog which was wandering round the rampart of the fort?In different forts lots of architectural and engineering marvels could be seen,were built to protect the King from the enemies,but,in how many cases they prevented the King from attacks of enemies may be subject of research. It was said that on noticing the Mughal intruders,the dog started barking and alerted the soldiers of Golkonda. The incident delayed the win of the Mughals over the Golkonda fort for few months.

view of Nagina Bagh

The colour of the Sun light in the evening started to create magical web with the Sun set and my visions started filling with silhouette of life that passed through the decades of war and peace.The sound of life of the ages gone by could be felt,it was like a communion with the history. At the Nagina Bagh of the fort the Commander Abdur Razzaq Lari of King Abul Hasan was resqued with innumerable wounds. The true saviour fought to resist the Mughal attack with just twelve of his followers with a sword and sitting on a bare horseback. The valiant warrior had such an envious loyalty to his master that he refused Aurangzeb`s proposal of joining his force with a very high rank. It was said that conquest of Golkonda would have been more difficult if the King Abul Hasan had possessed more Commanders like Abdur Razzaq Lari in his army. Another Commander of the King Abul Hasan,Abdullah Khan Pani of Golkonda guided the Mughal soldiers of Aurangzeb into the fort and the gate was opened from inside on 21-st September 1687 A.D.

layers of the rampart

The place once filled with echoes of peals coming out of the harem, reverberated the sound of anklet of the court dancers, new buds of hope bloomed with exuberance or where the whispers of conspiracy ended with bloodshed. The offices of Akanna and Madanna, the two efficient Ministers in the Qutb Shah-i court were further up. On the 16-th March 1686 may be through this road the two Ministers were on their way to home from the fort, were brutally slaughtered and their heads were presented before Aurangzeb, and crushed under elephant leg. It may be first possible conspiracy that Aurangzeb made in the fort that was successful before his conquest of the fort.

Ministers Office

The Golkonda fort,where the art and architecture found a modern direction towards prosperity, the place that silently felt the heart beats of different colours of life. With the exit of the last tourist of the evening the place will be in dark solitude. The evening was approaching, I looked back again with surprise,the Sun of the Qutb-Shahi dynasty was set on that day when the King was arrested by the soldier`s of Aurangzeb. Three line of ramparts of the fort were built one within the other to provide a three layer of defence but, could not protect the King Abul Hasan of Golkonda to surrender before Aurangzeb and could not prevent to be sent to Daulatabad as a prisoner. The witness of one of the greatest struggles of Indian History will be alone once again, as it was when the King was taken under Aurangzeb`s custody.

the Golkonda fort

A ritual 215 ft above sea level

As the person appeared on top of the Jagannath Temple of Puri and started to change the flag, the crowd gathered there, started cheering up, “Jai-Jagannath”. Everyday a new flag is prepared of triangular shape and a person climbs up the temple at sunset, his back supporting with the wall carrying the bundle of new flags, and after changing the flag, he brings down the previous days flag and climbs down, with his back supporting on the temple wall.
The Jagannath temple 215 ft.high, where the flag is replaced every day throughout the year, at the sunset. Except during the period of the Rath yatra ,and simultaneously a new flag is hoisted with a post, attached to the Chakra (wheel).The Chakra or Wheel is at top of the temple, made of eight types of metals, 11 ft. 8 inch. in length and circumference is 36 ft, the wheel is also called the Neela Chakra and Vishnu Chakra. The Jagannath Temple is an excellent example of Kalinga architecture. During the eighth century to eleventh century the temples of Odisha, were constructed. Temple of Lord Jagannath was constructed during that period.

The Jagannath Temple of Puri

The person hoists the flag everyday belongs the family or the sevayats who were given the rights for hoisting the flag 800 years ago by the king who built the Puri Jagannath Temple. To overcome fear of height, the male members of the family are to practice vigorously and learn the art of climbing the temple starting at an age of 10-12 years. It is very thrilling sight to see a person climbing such a high temple without any climbing gear or any other external support. It is believed to bring luck if a piece of flag can be collected from the hands of the person, who hoisted the flag. The man starts distributing the flag or piece of the same among the pilgrims immediately after coming down from the top. It is believed the extent of earning result is the same, as the extent of faith on Lord Jagannath.

How to reach: Puri is well connected by Rail and Road, with all the parts of rest of the India. Puri can be reached by direct trains or the trains to Bhubaneswar can be availed, and Puri can be reached by road or rail from Bhubaneswar. Website of Indian rail indianrail.gov.in can be visited for details.

The hawkers of the Sea beach

Puri,the abode of Lord jagannath, has been a heaven of pilgrimage since ancient times for the Hindus. More than five hundred years ago Mahaprabhu Chaitanyadeva the great religious reformer of India visited the Jagannath Temple of Puri, after accepting Vaisnava saintism. With the widely spread sea shore of the Bay of Bengal, it has been a common attraction for the tourists. Tourists of Puri have almost have a similar schedule-visiting abode of Lord Jagannath, sightseeing, doing shopping according to their budget and keep bathing into the sea for hours. All over the year, people from different corners of India come and enjoy the beauty of the sea and share the beach. First time visitors to this place find it very known to them very shortly and fall in love. Where the entertainment continues throughout the day.

the hawker of the Pearl at the Puri Beach

My attentions were concentrated on the waves of the sea and immediately after witnessing the Sunrise in the morning, the person we encountered was a hawker, selling the Pearl. Using his body for displaying the Pearl of different colours and sizes, the moving showroom of the Pearl approached us with a smile. The person was very relaxed and he spared long time in convincing, to sell the Pearl. A tourist will surely meet these hawkers trying to sell the Pearl. Largely scattered on the beach, they approach to each tourist irrespective of their wish to purchase the Pearl and bargain on the price goes on. The fishermen even try to sell precious stones to the tourists.

life jackets on rent at Puri sea beach

Owner of the tea stalls at the beach have a unique technique, they bring chairs at the beach for the tourists and it is a must to have tea from them to avail the sitting facility or pay for the chair on hourly rental basis. Long sea beach of Puri has been a source of earning a livelihood for many people. Innumerable hawkers run their families from the beach oriented business.

the hawker at Puri beach

I saw small boys selling key rings of sea shell, balloons, toys,local hand bags, life jackets were given on rent, and "Nooliahs" were taking the tourists into the deep sea, some with their Camel and Horses doing a business from giving a ride to the tourists.

the Photographer at the beach,Puri

Apart from paying visit to the Jagannath Temple, a dip into the sea, comes at the top of the priority list of the tourists of Puri. The tourists on their way to have bath into the sea cannot carry their camera, as that might get damaged in the splash of salty water. In the sea beach of the Puri, group of peoples, dressed in white shirt and black pant could be seen, to be approaching to the tourists even in knee deep water. They are the professional photographers of the beach. The days of film loaded cameras were replaced by new handy digital cameras. It has made easier to click and deliver the photographs to the tourists. The photographers were seen coming into the water with their camera and were taking photographs of the bathing tourists according to their demand. I found them were almost wet. Without caring for the condition of their dress, they were then approaching to another tourist for taking a snap. The business of earning through photography continues throughout the day. In the evening, after the day`s trip as I returned to the hotel, my photographs of the sea bathing were already delivered at the reception.
How to reach: Puri is well connected by Rail and Road, with all the parts of rest of India. Puri can be reached by direct trains or trains to Bhubaneswar can be availed, and Puri can be reached by road or rail from Bhubaneswar. Website of Indian rail indianrail.gov.in can be visited for details.

Buxa (the land of rare species)

Buxa Tiger reserve is popularly known for the numerous species of animals and birds.I saw a big sized lizard,busy in catching the insects.

Tokke at Buxa

The lizard was looking fearless and did not move even when I was very close.I asked a man of our guest house,he said, it was a snake (reptile) called "Tokke" or "Tokke geko".As they emit sound like that,as their mating call.It was big eyed and bluish in colour. In the evening I heard sound "Tokke",it was said that they often bite the human being when disturbed,causing a burning sensation,prevailing for few days.They are nocturnal and get hidden during the day.The lizards are mainly found in the surrounding of human habitations. The species were getting extinct and very few are remained.It was due to the trading of this lizard for their skin or so called medicinal use.

living colours of the Buxa

For hatching of their eggs,the Hornbills choose holes of long trees.When the time comes for the female to lay its eggs,she enters into the hole and they seal the entrance of the hole with mud and its droppings.Only a small hole is kept,through which the male hornbill feed the female throughout the period of incubation.

The great Indian Hornbill at Buxa

Last Tiger census in the Buxa Reserve Forest revealed the existence of around 20-tigers in this forest.Huge number of species of mammals,and birds were spotted to have existed in this forest.

Buxa fort(where the Nature meets History)

It was on 26-th May`12,on the trip to Visit the Buxa fort,hired a car from Alipurduar,and obtained permission from the forest Department,West Bengal at Rajabhatkhawa, for us and our car. The place will be met on the way to the fort.We Started our journey for the fort through the core area of the Buxa Tiger reserve.It is a tropical Rain forest with such a density of trees that eyes could not see further as the vision was getting restricted by thick bush.A natural International corridor for wild elephants migration between India and Bhutan. Buxa Tiger Reserve has the second biggest number of populations of Tiger after Sunderbans. It may also be called the place of unknown birds with wide variety of wild animals.On the way the driver told how he got encountered by a pack of wild dogs in that route.On our way we could see peacock,flying squirrel,jungle fowl, in the forest. At Santalabari,the place from where our trek started,we got down from the car.After necessary formalities at Santalabari,started walking up with a guide accompanying us.The man had a sharp eyesight and good spotter of birds. On our way to the fort,the pet dog of our guide kept following us throughout the way till we came down.The man kept holding my son`s hand and I could see them walking up in chatting like friends.The way leading to the fort,was full of trees mainly Teak.The trees were looking like they were planted in lines and columns.I asked the guide about that.He said,the ancestors of his family and other villagers of his locality provided labour in planting the trees, early during the British rule and received salt from them as the cost of their labour. It reminded me the term “salary” the word was derived from salt.Truly historic.

the Buxa fort

Buxa or Buxaduar is a place under the District of Jalpaiguri. The name of Buxa Tiger is derived from the Buxa fort and initially the fort was the property of Royal Govt. of Bhutan,was used as a check post for the traders to Bhutan.The British rulers of India after winning the 2-nd Indo-Bhutan war, took the fort under their control on 7-th December 1864 (First Bhutan war took place in 1774) and on 11-th November 1865 Sinchula treaty was signed between the British and the Bhutan Govt. and by virtue of which, entire Dooars area was annexed to India.In 1873 it was used as Bengal Native Infantry Barrack.During 1930 to 1937 and 1942 to 1947 it was used as Detention camp of Indian freedom fighters,and during 1948 to 1951 it was used as a Jail,for the political prisoners of India.During 1959 to 1969 it was used as a refugee camp for the Tibetan refugees and during 1971 to 1972 it was used as refugee camp for refugees from the Bangladesh.A martyr column has been built by the P.W.D.,Govt. of West Bengal in the Buxa fort in memory of the great freedom fighters of India who were jailed here. On our way to the fort,it was around 5-kms trek through the forest,several species of birds we saw and sighted the Great Indian Horn bill among the other beautiful birds,as I saw the Great Indian Horn bill I was surprised to see the size of the bird,it sounded terrific as it flied off.The guide spotted at least a couple of varieties of Hornbill. At last reached the Buxa fort,I got frightened,even thinking, of the freedom fighters and the refugees,were brought here,as nothing could be seen around, except forest and hills,even the trekking route we came through,also seemed to be lost.It reminded me the great Cellular Jail,Andaman,once the prisoners are brought here,there was no chance to escape.The banyan trees inside the jail campus will take you to the past,the storage tanks for water,tennis court,isolation cell could be seen,though the barracks were removed by the government.The fort was getting ruined,and landslide washed away some parts of the fort and it looked the fort will not exist long and its memories will remain restricted in photographs and stories only. The guide said the fort is within the area of forest,there are some technical difficulties in renovating the fort.But,if some serious measures are not taken in time,to restore or renovate the fort an important chapter of the Indian History that is under the threat of time,may get washed away.

the great Indian Hornbill

A small village has been established.The people live there,bring the commodities of their daily need on foot from the plains.Our guide took me to a place near the fort,he showed the houses of the British period and several other important houses of that time. Buxaduar post office has been established in such a house.

the small village of Buxa

A small museum we saw in the locality,with nicely displayed exhibits,photo of the prisoners who were jailed here during the Indian freedom movement.The Buxa fort how it looked earlier,pictures on varieties of animal and birds found in the Buxa jungle,few musical instruments,replica of a letter that was written by the prisoners to the great poet Rabindranath Tagore and the reply from Rabindranath written in 1931 were also kept among the exhibits. Another interesting thing I saw, a piece of wood with a peculiar looking opening,with small bees could be seen within that.It was kept for bee culture.It was surprising to see a place that was used for the prisoners to punish in the British time is now a village of peoples,living happily. The guide was so eager to show me the place for worship of local people in their houses,he took me to a house and described how the people (The Dukpas) worship (The Buddhists) their god.Small kitchen gardens and Peach trees loaded with the fruits were refreshing for eyes. The man took me near a huge Sal tree, and collected some crystalline solid deposited on the bark of the tree of blackish red in colour, and gently rubbed with his hand.As he spread the hand before our nose, it smelt excellent. He said it was “Sal dhoop” or the fragrance of Sal tree and has germicidal effects and its fumes or fragrances keep away mosquito and flies when burnt at home. I never knew the the Sal tree gives such superb fragrance apart from its valuable wood. Thanks again, for enriching us with his knowledge. The forest has all its resource for our benefit,only thing needed is to protect them. I was thinking,when prisoners were brought here how did they survive!Now,I got the answer, “If there is a will, there is a way”.

bee culture

There were another 4-kms. extra trek for the Rovers Point,the land of unknown birds.The place can attract more tourists and trekking lovers,the beauty of lush green forests are still to be discovered.Even closing my eyes, l can still see the fort,the houses of British period,the village, the beautiful landscapes.At the time we started leaving from Santalabari,the guide came close to my son and said "When you will grow up,come again".I could see the dwindling silhouette of the person standing at that place waving his hand and did not move until the car took us so far away from him that we lost him from our vision.Our guide was truly a nature lover and future of Buxa looks very safe in their hands. My memories of Buxa is ever fresh and is never forgettable.

the person guided us to explore the Buxa

On 11-th May 1981 Buxa fort was declared `Historical monument` under West Bengal Preservation of historical monuments and objects of Archaeological sites Act. 1957 (West Bengal Act XXI of 1957). Cars can be hired from Alipurduar upto Santalabari and then Buxa fort can be reached through the forest and is around 5-kms uphill walk.Options of home-stays by the local peoples can also be availed at Buxa,to witness the nature meeting the history. Alipurduar is well connected by road as well as railway network. Nearest airport Bagdogra.

Dooars : Chapramari Wildlife Sanctuary

the panoramic view to Chapramari Wildlife Sanctuary

The Jeep was running through the road (NH-31) crowded with the vehicles.The forest on both the sides were looking very impressive and the notice for slow drive through this area was seen,as it was a corridor of wild elephants.I was very hopeful about sighting the wild elephants and was dreaming of a herd of elephants crossing the road.I was looking as long my sight permitted through the trees to trace the wild animals.The Jeep took a left turn and an entirely new world of nature opened up in front my eyes.This road was different with few cars were plying and I was so amazed by the beauty of the forest that, apart from watching wild animals, I would have spent my time watching the panoramic view.The grove of trees were upright and looked like strong men in their youth.Even the colour of the leaves on trees were different on either side of the road.The beauty of the environment was charmingly beautiful.

the entry point of the Chapramari Wildlife sanctuary

The Jeep turned to left and we were at the entry gate of the Chapramari Wildlife Sanctuary.The man at the visitors` check-point was very calm to tell us that witnessing the herd of elephants and bisons were very common .As the gate was opened,we were within the area of Chapramari,one of the oldest wildlife sanctuary of this area.The trees with in forest area were a real beauty.

the herd of Indian Bisons at the Chapramari forest

Suddenly a herd of Indian Bisons or Gaur were sighted in the forest,and the Jeep stopped.The herd were so close to us with their massive sized males,very strongly built,it looked like a football team in their white socks,and I took enough photos to satisfy my hunger of sighting wild bisons. The herd had their young members with them and kept watching them till they entered into the deep forest. The guide spotted peacocks many times,Saw huge Hornbills were flying off,and a flight of Parrots on the way to their nest. Chapramari Wildlife Sanctuary is one of the most attractive destinations of Dooars. Chapramari forest can be visited from the Gorumara National Park from where permission to enter into the forest area of Chapramari can be obtained,and the forest has a good density and variety of wild animals. well connected by Rail and Road.Nearest Airport-Bagdogra.West Bengal Forest Development Corporation has their lodge – Panjhora Wilderness Camp,Murti Cottage,etc.staying where the beauty of Chapramari can be witnessed with a safari ride.The forest remain closed during 16-th June to 15-th September every year.